Exploring Gortyns (at least finding the parking lot) &, (festos) Phaistos Crete
GORTYS: Bummer..... closed for the night so we need to come back tomorrow!!
The archaeological site of Gortys is lying in the plateau of Messara. We actually drove past it a couple of times as we didn’t realize the site also had the Basilica of St. Titus an early 7th Century aD church. We saw the Basilica and the sign and drove past… Then we would get to the next town, know we passed it and turned around. When we stopped at the St. Titus church we found the Goryns sign was hidden by vegetation.
We arrived as the personnel were leaving. Darn! They ignored our questions as they walked quickly to the car…. Then we got lucky! One lady dropped her phone and didn’t notice. David ran and picked it up and approached her. She was very grateful to get the phone. She stood and spoke to us for several minutes about the site and the hours. We decided to come back the next day. It was about 3 in the afternoon and we were hungry.
When we had been driving back and forth on the highway (looking for the site) we had passed a restaurant several times. We decided to stop to see if they were open. It was called Island Girl but in Greek. *****look for the sign with the palm tree ***** We climbed the stairs and stood uncertainly on the large deck. It looked closed …. Then a lady hurried out and asked if we would like to eat and showed us to a table in the shadow of the deck. A shy, beautiful 10 year old girl came out and set the table. She brought us bread and an appetizer of fried cheese. We ordered drinks and sat contentedly in the shade looking at the neighboring olive orchard and at the cars rushing by. The girl brought menus.
David and I ordered a Greek Salad: They consist of cucumbers, feta, lettuce, olives and tomatoes. (We split this because I am allergic to tomatoes and David doesn’t like cucumbers: the olives, feta and lettuce are halved) I started to order a couple of things but it appeared there was a problem as she kept stopping me. The girl finally rushed inside to bring the lady. The lady asked me if I would like Moussaka. Sure, I would, as long as it’s Greek food I knew I would be happy. David ordered and we got a carafe of wine. Ahhhh, life is good.
It was one of the best meals we had on Crete. When we were paying David only had a large bill. The lady was mortified to find her husband had taken all of the money when he went to town so she couldn‘t make change. Yikes. We started going through our things to get enough small bills to pay. We barely covered the bill. We were feeling sad as we didn’t have enough for a tip for our young waitress. The lady took all of our bills and change and was just leaving the table when her husband drove back in! She was very pleased to give our small money back to us and give us change for the large bill. And we were pleased to have enough for a tip. Everyone was happy!
FESTOS: PHAISTOS Amazing place: the disc of Festos was discovered here. ...
We drove towards the south west of the island. The area we were driving through was a rich agricultural region called the valley of Messara. It was lined with orchards, vineyards, gardens and fields. We wondered what it would have looked like when it was around harvest time. It was really wonderful to look out across the patterns of the different crops. Phaistos is built on a hill As we drove we saw the signs for Festos: also spelled Phaistos. We thought it would be closed but amazingly it was still open. We bought the tickets and walked down the wooded path to the ancient site. They had a nice gift shop and a small restaurant at the site entrance.
The excavations showed the site was ruins of Neolithic times 3000 BC. According to mythology Phaistos was the home of king Radamanthis: brother of Minos. The city was also the home of Epimenidis one of the seven wise men of the ancient world. The Phaistos palace was first built at 2000 BC. It was the second largest city of Minoan Crete. In 1700 BC the palace was destroyed by an earthquake. It was built again with more grandeur and magnificence. The city participated in the Trojan War and became a leader in the Dorian period.
Phaistos palace was located so it was the dominate force of the Messara valley. It administered the government of the area and was the economic center of the region. The palace had huge storerooms for goods for trade and consumption.
It flourished but was destroyed by the Gorthnians during the 3rd century BC. It continued to exist during the Roman period. The seaports to Phaistos was Matala and Kommos.
The Disc of Phaistos is one of the most important discoveries. It is embossed with symbols believed to be an early example of printing Which is basically pressing shapes into damp clay. The hieroglyphics are the earliest know Minoan script dated approximately 1700 to 1600 BC. Both the front and back are covered with Hieroglyphs: it’s arranged in a spiral. The groups are divided by lines (like a pie cut). It is theorized each of the groups represent a word. There are 45 different types of signs. There are many suggestions of what they could mean. One theory is it may be a list of soldiers. Another suggests a ring is discussing the erection of the palace of Phaistos. The disk has not been interpreted satisfactorily yet.
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One thing I really enjoyed was watching a man repair an oil vessel. He was working down in the storage areas (which are sunken areas) and had a tarp over him for shade. It was really quite hot. I kneeled and took some pictures ... He was so nice..... he put the shade cover up so I could see better..... It was so great to see the careful work he did.... first he filled he holes with a palette then he matched the grain on the outside with the paint brush.... it was really an art. I sat for about a half hour watching him.... then I noticed how hot he was and realized he must be quite uncomfortable.... I thanked him in Greek and handed him a cold bottle of water I had just purchased at the snack bar. This kindness is typical ..... What a really nice man.
MATALA...... A PARTY TOWN IN SUMMER.... BUT IT WAS EMPTY WHEN WE GOT THERE....
It was getting late and we needed to find a motel: We drove to the nearby town of Matala. We were surprised at how deserted it looked. We drove up one street that had little hotels and guest house and even looked at one of the rooms. We didn't really mean to look at any room but the lady/owner was sweeping her drive way and stopped us when we drove back out the street. She insisted on showing us a room. It was 35 Euros but I didn't want to stay there as it had no view and the room smelled very strongly of bleach. I couldn't see how we could sleep there. We thanked her politely and drove to the far end of town..... the middle of the town had a huge metal gate that was open. Obviously traffic was usually not allowed there.
We drove in to the far area feeling a bit strange about going in. We saw an open Taverna I got out of the car and asked the owner if she knew of a motel and mimed sleeping.... she said " a rrroom? (trilling the R") I said yes.... She pointed up a steep driveway and said ugh...then mimed a right turn with a grunted ugh and then mimed straight again...... OK ... we are on our way.... I let David know I'll be right back and ran up the hill...turned right then again straight..... a lady was standing under an apartment balcomy drying her hair with a towel.... I asked if she knew of a motel or place to sleep. ... she said (of course....) a rrroom?...(I should have known...) and I said yes.... she said "come" and walked to the end of the balcony and up the stairs.... She walked to the end room and opened the door.... The room was plain but nice. I asked her how much.... she said 25 Euros and walked over and opened the window.... The view was the bay....I knew David would love it. I let her know I was running to get my husband and ran down to fetch David. He drove up and parked and looked at the room. Like me he was taken by the view. The lady was very sweet and put a couple of chairs and a table out on the little balcony... As far as we could tell the only other person staying there was a young man camping on the roof.
After we brought up our suitcases we decided to go find an internet and get dinner. We found an internet down towards the other end of town in a bar. The bar was crowded with locals... I felt like a meany when one of the kids had to stop playing on the computer for a paying customer.... I typed for about 45 minutes and David offered to go find a place to eat.... First he ran down to the little taverna we had seen when we first came but it was closed for meals. He found a snack bar kind of place about 1/2 block from the bar I was at.
We walked down.... just before we walked in David warned me that there was a huge group of men sitting around a table singing and they were probably drunk..... We walked to a table and sat down.... a man got a menu for us and returned to the group. They were absolutely not drunk..... they were drinking water and playing music and singing along with it at the top of their lungs..... it was great!!! We loved the music and loved the singing. We tried to order from the menu but the man said he only had one thing.... we said... we'll take that. He brought out two thin tough steaks that were full of fat. We didn't care. We ate it ... we were starved. As we left he told us if we wanted to come back in the morning he would make crepes.... Yum..... we said we would be back....
Later that night we walked back through the deserted town towards our room. The little taverna was still serving drinks so we got two glasses and a bottle of red wind ..... we walked around the back of the building to enjoy the sunset as we sat and talked. ... Later we walked on up the hill to our room..... We opened the window and just laid listening to the surf and the silence of the night.....
LIFE IS GOOD....
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