Annapurna Circuit - Day 5 (Bagarchap-Chame)
Chame Travel Blog› entry 47 of 136 › view all entries
Up somewhat early (6:30-ish) to another mostly haze free and clear morning. That seemed to be the pattern in the spring in the Annapurnas - clear mornings with clouds rolling in by late morning or early afternoon obscuring most views. So the goal was to get going relatively early to be able to see some decent sites along the way. This morning there were some decent views of Annapurna II to our west from Bagarchap. After heading generally north for most of the first 4 days of the trek we had turned west yesterday and would be circling around the north side of the Annapurna Himal. Annapurna II and IV, anchoring the east end of the range, were the first major peaks that we could see.
I actually felt a bit nauseous this morning.
But the traffic tie-ups provided an excellent opportunity to stop and take in the views. And they were worth it. From the views back down to the Marsyangdi valley and Danaque below to my first view of an 8000m peak. Yes, Manaslu was visible to the east. Located the next subrange over from the Annapurna Himal, Manaslu is the eighth highest peak in the world at a height of 8156m (26758 ft).
We had a tea stop in Temang at 2500m (8200 ft). Shortly before arriving we reached the snow line for the first time as well. It was spotty and in areas that remained mainly in the shade, but snow nonetheless.
During the walk today I definitely began to feel some of the effects of higher elevation. Beyond the slight nausea this morning, it was definitely harder walking the steep uphill sections than yesterday's walk to Tal. Nothing that I would consider major, but the rest breaks are much more welcomed now when we walk. It's also getting noticeably cooler (hence the snow). It's warm enough to melt the snow that's fallen, but when the sun sets or goes behind the clouds, it feels very cold.
Today was not as long as yesterday, only 6:30 start to finish and 4:30 of trekking time.
Typical Trekking Day
On a typical trekking day we would wake up between 6:00 and 7:00 AM depending on the agreed upon departure time. Pack up all the gear and take our bags out to the porters. We would meet in the dining room for breakfast (that we had placed our orders for the night before) and then would strive to be on the trail between 7:00 and 8:00 AM.
Walking on the trail was pretty slow going. We took multitudes of short breaks throughout the day. At first I wasn't thrilled with all the breaks, but the higher in elevation that we reached the more beneficial these became.
Arriving at our stop for the night we would place a dinner order then head to our rooms to "freshen up". If we were lucky there might be a hot shower, but often it was just trying to clean up as best as one could. Dinner was between 6:30 and 7:00 PM. Before and after was time to read, write, play some cards or other games, or just converse with fellow trekkers. Bedtime came quickly after meals and I found myself calling it an evening not much later than 9:00 PM most nights.
The next day the pattern would start all over again.