Two weeks in Mongolia's capital. It's my first visit in 16 years (since 1992!). A LOT has changed. The city doesn't reek of mutton anymore and there is quite an amazing traffic problem now. Same soviet streets, modern needs. Crime is a huge problem here now. I hear daily rumors of muggings, armed robbery and racial beatings of western tourists, and rampant pickpocketings. I steer clear of crowds and stay off the streets at night as a precaution. The biggest change is the variety of food in the supermarkets. In 1992, the only food I saw in the largest 'supermarket' in town had two large wire baskets in the middle of a cavernous soviet-style building filled with nothing but hooves (yak?) in one and dirty cabbages in the other. Now, there are many stores with plenty of european and chinese goods, and even some fresh fruits, vegetables, and cheeses. Most of the buildings still look the same (ie ex-soviet style), but there are a few modern buildings being errected in the center of town.