Farewell to the Pamirs

Khorog Travel Blog

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More scenery from the Ishkashim-Khorog road

Halloween in Tajikistan nearly passed without me even realizing what day it was. Since I didn't see anyone dressed in costumes or asking for candy, I can reasonably assume the holiday is not celebrated in these parts. After breakfast with Gulshan and her family, we walked together towards the center of town where she quickly found me a Damas minivan heading to Khorog. We said our goodbyes and she continued to walk to work while I was quickly on my way to the city where my Pamir adventure had begun. This time the drive took only about three hours and we hardly stopped for more than a couple minutes on the way back.

I called Adolat the moment I got out of the minivan and she welcomed me back. This time a young man and younger girl who spoke English were there, presumably her children who hadn't been there previously.

After the roughing it in the Wakhan, the western bathroom and shower was something I was most looking forward to experiencing after a week of not showering, changing clothes or even washing my hands properly. But knowing that I couldn't take a shower until later, I relished in washing my hands and face with hot, soapy water and set out in search of the Indian restaurant I'd heard about. And what a treat...I stuffed myself with three courses and a cup of hot coffee for less than the price it would have cost for me to have Adolat cook me lunch. Not that her food was bad, but I was in the mood for Indian and even if it would not have been available, I would have been fine with a cheap snack from the bazaar.

Walking around Khorog after a satisfying meal, I was greeted by many smiling children saying "hello" and a sudden feeling of being in a cosmopolitan city. I can't say I wasn't treated well in the Wakhan, but Khorog was definitely a sight for sore eyes. The city was bustling with activity in preparation for the imminent visit of the Aga Khan, who was due to arrive on November 4th. I had planned on visiting the museum, but it was closed so I used an ATM for the first time on my trip and settled in for some catching up on emails before heading to the next meal, again at the Indian restaurant.

I slept soundly that night, excited about my next adventure and thinking about things I'd like to do when I get back home and possible careers. For some reason, the Pamirs inspired me to become motivated towards the next step. I couldn't take a shower, though, because the water shut off, but I woke up at 6:30 and enjoyed every drop of hot water, soap and shampoo that I could before setting off on another journey that promised to be 24 hours long.

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photo by: Biedjee