St Malo : Memories beside the seaside.
I awake from a rather fitful sleep in a reclining chair aboard The Bretagne with just about enough orientation to find the bathroom, freshen up and go to stuff a bowl of fruit and a large coffee down my gullet as France hoves into view and we approach the port of St.Malo.
I am very happy for this to be the first slice of ‘foreign soil’ that I will put my feet down on as this seaside town formed part of several family Weselby trips to the continent in our younger years. I still fondly remember the swimming pool that is cleverly crafted on the beach so that when the tide goes out a rock-structure retains a large portion of ocean water so that until the tide returns it sits there upon the beach for all to use. There was, and still is I am glad to see, a high diving board at the back of the pool.
When you dive from on top of this you go jetting down to the depths of the pool and can spy all manner of marine life there left behind, stranded when the tide went out. A plethora of fish and most memorably LARGE red spider-crabs!
It is to the old, fortified part of St.Malo town that I wish to return today and to see the pool still sitting there upon the coast. I walk through the quiet, cobbled town streets. It is perfectly quiet and still at 8.30, for the town it seems is barely waking. A few early morning joggers and dog-walkers are my only occasional company as I walk along the towns high, stone walls. And there IT IS! The old swimming pool and I am in luck for the tide is out, and it sits there upon the beach just as I remember, and at this time with no one disturbing its surface.
Magic.
Having made this min-pilgrimage to a tiny part of my family’s past it’s time to get cracking, so I rather ineptly stroll up and down long roads through the main part of St.Malo town until I find “la gare” and purchase my ticket to Vannes via Rennes. Vannes/ Carnac is where my aunty and cousins are currently staying, visiting my half-cousin (their sister) Julia. Diane is expecting me but it will be a little surprise for the boys as they believe they’ve already seen me for the last time in the next 2 years or so.
I am collected from the train station at Vannes by Julia and my Aunty Di and drive the short distance to the picturesque town of Auray where I greet the boys and sit down for my first ‘weary traveller’s’ beer of my whole adventure :)
The gang are staying in a nice flat, owned by Julia’s mother in her hometown of Carnac.
We have a relaxing family meal of lovely French cheeses, fresh baguettes, chorizo and a sliced, heated portion of a special French meat sausage-style dish called Andouille (literally meaning ‘idiot’). This has a delicious smoky flavoured, black-peppercorn laced flavour and I would highly recommend it…just don’t spend too long staring it in the eye(s) wondering which parts of which animals were fused together in Frankenstein’s kitchen to make the dish possible ok!
To walk off our meal, we stroll through the bustling, tourist-season hustle of Carnac-by-the-beach and stop to load up on some stupendously large and delicious ice-creams from Glacier L’Igloo, a ice-cream bar famed for having anything up to a 100 (or was it even 160?) ice-cream flavours. “WOW!” I slurp into a caramel and banana-choc double cone as we head for a nightime stroll along the beach as the waves gently lap the shoreline. What a pleasant start to proceedings!
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