Salzburg : Into the mountains.

Salzburg Travel Blog

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"The hills are aliiive with the sound of MOOsic" ...sorry, that was such a BAD joke ;D

On the move again. 07.40 : train to Salzburg.  I’m tiiiiired this morning.  Last day of my last clean T-shirt too.  Not a single cloud dares to break the uniform blue of the morning sky.  I reckon they must be concealed behind the mountains, waiting in hiding from me.  Ready to pounce on me unawares!  The sun has a particularly strong golden-ochre sheen at this time of the morning when it’s light goes thus unchallenged.  There should be some pretty scenery on today’s train ride(s).  Sadly though the windows of the train are phenomenally dirty so not photo-friendly.

 

08.

40 : Must be getting a little higher up now.  Banks of mist, yet to be burnt away by the sun, are hanging around like so many early morning loafers who know they’ve gotta get up and get to work, but they’re “quite happy just lying here amidst the trees and the houses, thank you very much!”.  They dilute the clear blue above.  My ears are responding to the change in pressure and cooler air is beginning to filter through the AC vents on the train.  Yes, we’re definitely in the hills now. 

 

10.40 : Salzburg.

 

My ticket today actually is to get me further west to Innsbruck but I have left early so as to get a good portion of the day here, in the valley city of Salzburg.

"Yey! We like tree!" :)
  Bag stuffed into the Hauptbahnhof locker system and I’m out into the blazing sunlight and the city.  I’m playing this one entirely by ear.  I know nothing about Salzburg if you exclude - as you should - ANY considerations of ‘The Sound of Music’.  Where to go, or what there is to see I know not so I’m playing this one entirely by hunch and head left for no other reason other than waaaaay in the distance I can see a mountain and am keen to get my first proper view of a range whatever direction it may take me in.

 

This system proves very successful today and my feet impulsively guide me straight in the direction of what turns out to be the Old Town and some of the best places available for viewing the city and surrounding mountains.  My curiosity peaked by a dingy, old looking staircase heading off between two houses leads me to the beginning of what turns out to be the Kapuzinerberg (Capuchin or ‘City’ Hill) atop of which sits an old defensive fort holdout the Franziski Schloß (now a tavern restaurant, but sadly not open today).

  The various paths through this lovely, heavily wooded hill in the centre of Salzburg offer me my first opportunity to remind myself what it feels like to start getting back to nature.  Dappled sunlight.  Infinite shades of green.  The aroma of refreshing pine upon the breeze.  There are magnificent views of all areas of Salzburg at various viewpoints set on the walks over Capuchin Hill.

 

Walking back to the point of origin and a way back down to town along the Stefan-Zweig Weg path, along the remainders of an old fortification wall, every few hundred metres there are small, roofed historic lookout posts.  They seem now to have been reclaimed by come of the City’s more industrious members of the homeless population, their possessions strewn within look like fairly permanent fixtures.

View of the Alpine range.
  One even has a ‘Privat’ sign attached to the barred entrance suspended amidst the manky carrier bags and broken rucksacks that serve as drawers and wardrobes here.  A ring of stones on the exterior encircles a mound of ashes from previous nights’ fires.  Salzburg Fortress is directly in the line of sight, but no longer need care to look out for these beacon fires upon the opposite hill.

 

Back in town, I now cross the river and continue to admire the pleasant buildings of the city.  I stop and have a cheapy lunch.  A giant curled bockwürst sausage with a mound of frittes and  mustard with a beer.  I then heft my bloated tummy up a hill that’s bloomin’ hard work leading up to the entrance to the Fortress on the hill.  A funicular train can also be taken but I’m hoping the effort of walking’ll get you up and in for free…but it doesn’t.

Church in Salzburg.
  7 Euros or more to go further up and walk around the battlements and today, a little tired anyhow, I really can’t be bothered.  If you turn to head back down though a walkway veers off and up onto the surrounding hills, these containing some stunning views of the surrounding countryside (only about 800metres along) and my first real visual intake of things to come in the form of the Alpine range.  And this way is free too!  A fab way to view this very pretty city and its valley environs.

 

16.40 : Back on the train to Innsbruck now.  It’s hot’n’blue above still.  A few tiny streaks of cloud no thicker than jet-streams cut across the baby-blue vault.  They criss-cross to make formations in my mind.

"Yey!" the scenery starts to get more & more beautiful as I zip further into the Alpine range in the train.
  A giant winged phoenix one minute; a dragonfly a few minutes later.  Maybe you would have seen something different? :)

 

I arrive in Innsbruck and make my way by bus (once I’ve sort of worked out the system) to what will be the first Youth Hostel International (HI) stay of my trip so far.  As I gather is often the case with HIs, it’s a fairway off the beaten track and walking there with a 70 litre backpack is not a sensible option.  A bus ride it is.  It’s a pretty grim looking place too, the HI.  I’m tired out.  No will to head back into town tonight and get away from it though.  I put some washing on and try to coax some life outta the Wi-Fi connection (unsuccessfully) whilst another interesting sunset settles down behind the line of mountains observable from the communal lounge. 

alicegourmet says:
I went to Salsburg in September, 1998...10 years ago! It was a rainny day when I was visiting! You are lucky to see this beautiful city on a sunny day! :)
Posted on: Oct 12, 2008
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The hills are aliiive with the so…
"The hills are aliiive with the s…
Yey! We like tree! :)
"Yey! We like tree!" :)
View of the Alpine range.
View of the Alpine range.
Church in Salzburg.
Church in Salzburg.
Yey! the scenery starts to get m…
"Yey!" the scenery starts to get …
The Festung Hohensalzburg fortress…
The Festung Hohensalzburg fortres…
The Festung Hohensalzburg.
The Festung Hohensalzburg.
View of the city from the hill.
View of the city from the hill.
Stairway into the wooded hillside.
Stairway into the wooded hillside.
Leaf shadow (abstract)
Leaf shadow (abstract)
The old fortyification on top of t…
The old fortyification on top of …
One of the city wall watch posts.
One of the city wall watch posts.
Nope, I have no flippin idea what…
Nope, I have no flippin' idea wha…
The funicular train line up into t…
The funicular train line up into …
View of the city from the hill.
View of the city from the hill.
Say cheeeese! for the camera ;D
Say "cheeeese!" for the camera ;D
Decorative shopping street in Salz…
Decorative shopping street in Sal…
MOUNTAINS SIGHTED!  Salzburg tra…
"MOUNTAINS SIGHTED!" Salzburg tr…
Salzburg
photo by: travpro11