Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls Travel Blog

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It starts to really sink in just how bad things have become in Zimbabwe when I change dollars for their currency and realize it doesn't even look like money - in fact it has an expiration date that has already passed!  My taxi driver assures me that it is still valid.  I'm staring at all the zeros on the "bills" and realize I can't even count this high.  The driver keeps looking at me in the rear view mirror and asks why I even bothered to come here at all.

My hotel is a mostly sad affair with a semi-clean pool - seen some better days in the past I imagine.  My next two nights I decide to stay in a backpacker guesthouse that consists of african-styled bungalows in a tropical setting.  Very nice!  The falls are just amazing.  I find a location on the Zambian side where I can see about 8 of the falls at once.

  Rainbows are shining through the mist.  It is awe-inspiring.   There are a few adrenalin seekers bunjy jumping off the Zambezi bridge separating the two countries.  On both sides, I get swarmed by kids hawking carvings and copper bracelets.  They want dollars and even then they are very inexpensive, so I stock up and help them out.  That afternoon and evening, I sign up for cruise on the upper Zambezi (but far enough from the falls that we don't go over!).  It's a small boat and there are only a half dozen of us.  We see plenty of hippo and even a few crocs.   I talk to this couple from Harare who say they are among the many white farmers who were run off their land recently.
  It's a sad tale they tell and it seems Zimbabwe is heading for great catastrophe.  I also meet another couple on the cruise from the UK who have just been to Mozambique.  They invite me over to their fancy resort after the cruise for some "tea on the veranda".   Too funny.  It's a wildlife resort that is built not far from a watering hole.  With spotlights glaring down at the hole, we sat and talked for hours watching all kinds of wildlife come up to drink through our binoculars:  elephant, buffalo, gazelle, etc.  Fantastic!

My last morning, I walked down the path past some ant hills that are taller than me to The Big Tree, a thousand year old baobob tree, and some other large ones like it.  A few self-proclaimed 'guards' of the trees (whatever that's supposed to mean) keep coming up to me trying to hustle some money out of me.  It's getting old, so I head back to the guesthouse and check out for my flight.

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Victoria Falls
photo by: Biedjee