Through Inner Arcadia

Nafplio Travel Blog

 › entry 4 of 18 › view all entries

Next morning, after breakfast I had a long conversation with Susanna's husband about the best route through Arcadia.  Following his recommendations, we set off on the Ethniki Odos for Lagkadia.  After Lagkadia, we turned south and passed through Dimitsana before stopping for lunch at Stemnitsa.  After we pulled the vans off the road, I led the kids into the main plateia of Stemnitsa and told them to hang tight while I scoped out a place for lunch. I went into the first place that seemed open, and asked if they could accomodate us.  They could; we had some of the best food I've ever eaten; the kids were monumentally impressed; and then the adults went for coffee at Katafygio, a cafe off the plateia, and the kids wandered around.


We got back in the vans and headed for Tripoli on the mountain road.  No one got motion sickness, except for a minor scare at the beginning of the trip in the morning.  We stopped frequently for breaks and photo opportunities and it warded off the problem.  There was unanimous agreement that Ms Broome-Raines' idea to drive through Arcadia was a good one.  Of course, Ms Broome-Raines wasn't driving a nine-seater van around dozens of fourkettes. 

In Tripoli, we stopped for ice cream in the main square by the church (at Dodoni, where we got ice cream with ASCSA in Summer '03).  After that, we picked up the new Ethniki Odos for Korinth and came straight into Nafplio.

  I called Hotel Vasilis to get directions to the hotel on Katrina's cell phone.

(translated from Greek)
"Hi, I'm coming in from Tiryntha, how do I get to the hotel?"
"The hotel is full."
"We have a reservation."
"There are no outstanding reservations."
"We've had this reservation since October 26."
"I can't help you."
"But you emailed me to confirm it.  I have a print-out of the confirmation."
"Oh, I remember you.  I faxed you back that the confirmation was no good the next day."
"I don't have a fax."
"Yes you do, you faxed me your credit card number."
"Yeah, from the Kinko's.  If you replied to that number, I never would have gotten it.  That's why it says 'reply to email'."
"Oh.  Hmm."

and on and on.

Eventually, the guy came to meet us at our car (Vasilis in person, in fact).

Western Arkadia
  He felt pretty bad about the situation, but we had 15 people with no beds, and Nafplio on New Year's weekend is packed with people, and there are no extra rooms.  That's why we reserved in October.  Finally Katrina and I just walked around until we found a hotel.  We got rooms in something that, if the owners decide they don't want to be in the hotel business anymore, could easily serve as an insane asylum or medium security prison.  The place is hideous; probably last re-painted in 1971.  But they could accomodate us at a reasonable price, so we took it.

We went to fetch the kids, checked them in, and then the adults took off for our own private dinner party.  The kids by this time were itching to do their own thing for dinner, and Nafplio is harmless, so we let them off the hook for the evening.

Grove in eastern Ileia.
  Most of them just went around the corner for gyros or souvlaki but the adults went to an amazing tavernaki in the Old City.  We ordered a bunch of mezedes and wine and took our time.  It was a great meal, and we it was nice not having to come up with an explanation for why it's not okay to nap at the dinner table in a restaurant, yes, even if you're tired.

Afterwards, we went back to the hotel.  We had meant to go out for a drink but we were all so tired.  (This is starting to be the theme here.)  In the morning, we left at 8:00 for Mycenae.  We took the wrong road but next year we'll know to turn right after Tiryns, and we won't get mixed up again.  The Museum was closed (Monday opens at noon, oops) so we went up to the Citadel, where we had a student presentation, my lecture, and the kids went down the Secret Cistern.

Shot through the car window to show the road.
  Then we went to the Treasury of Atreus for another lecture and student presentation.  Then we took them back into Nafplio for lunch at the same souvlatzidiko where we ate last year. 

I took off for the hotel for an hour while Steve, Anne, and Cristina took the kids to Palamidi.  Katrina and I came here to work on our email for a while.  The plan is to do a repeat of last night, but with shopping this time too :-)

I absolutely loved the trip through Arcadia.  I have taken almost 600 photos so far, and most of them were in Arcadia.  I think we will probably make this part of the trip standard for the future!

Well, that is all I can think of at the moment.  We are all having a wonderful time, the weather has been spectacular, and even the teenagers (a very hard-to-impress group) are loving it.  Happy New Year to everyone :-)

Love, Xaroula.

sylviandavid says:
glad to hear the road is interesting... we are doing the same route in reverse next month.... Do you remember where you ate the meal in Stemnitsa? Enjoying the blog.
Posted on: Feb 06, 2011
Join TravBuddy to leave comments, meet new friends and share travel tips!
Western Arkadia
Western Arkadia
Grove in eastern Ileia.
Grove in eastern Ileia.
Shot through the car window to sho…
Shot through the car window to sh…
Translation:  My dear passers-by,…
Translation: "My dear passers-by…
Stemnitsa street.
Stemnitsa street.
Plaque on a fountain at the entran…
Plaque on a fountain at the entra…
photo by: sylviandavid