My Last Pelourinho Tuesday and an Encounter with a (Rabid?) Cat
November 7, 2006
It was my last Tuesday night in Pelourinho
(Bencao) and I wanted it to be a fun one. We'd had a few weeks of weird
Tuesday nights- a guy had a seizure on the dance floor, tropical
rainstorms, and a crazy local bothering us. So some of my roommates
wanted to stay in but I convinced them they had to come out for my last
Bencao. When we arrived in Pelourinho, it was more crowded than usual.
You could definitely sense that Brazilian summer and the holidays were
approaching.
There were large groups of tourists wearing nametags- "Hello my name is: Charlie Johnson from Oklahoma" I think it's really funny and a little dumb to go to an area that's known for tourist muggings and pretty much advertise that you're a gringo. The week before, a new volunteer was walking through Pelourinho and amidst the crowd and the tourist police, someone yanked her gold chain from her neck. She got it back, but it's not the best way to kick off your volunteer experience. Anyway, there were a lot of minor muggings but if you are careful and aware, you can avoid this.
We went to our regular fruitstand and ordered morangoroskas (fresh strawberries and vodka). We hung out with the regular street kids. I promised some of the kids a few weeks before that I would buy necklaces from them before I left. It's a difficult situation because you want to support them but at the same time, you feel like they need to be at home getting some sleep instead of selling things to tourists and staying out so late. But of course, it's a situation I don't fully understand. And at least many of the kids are making a few honest Reais selling necklaces instead of pickpocketing or being strung out on drugs and begging for change.
After hanging out in the square and checking out the concert, we went to watch Banda Dida and Swing do Pelo play their drums in the streets. The crowd was huge and there was a ton of energy in the air. Swing do Pelo usually starts on one street of Pelourinho and then goes to a stage in Largo do Pelourinho where they stop. But they kept going further through Pelourinho and they kept pounding away at their drums. I was dancing amongst many familiar faces and in that moment, I felt like I had assimilated. Throughout my life, almost everywhere I go, I've gotten used to not being able to blend in. So it's such a different feeling for me to feel completely at home. Until a few years ago when I started to learn I about Bahia, I wouldn't have expected to find that feeling in Brazil.
They kept playing but after some time we decided to leave to go to Habeas Copus. I was getting pretty decent at dancing to forro by this time and not stepping on quite so many toes. I decided to take a break and return to the table to chat with the other volunteers and my favorite waiter. I was standing by a table and all of a sudden I heard a cat growl and a second later felt a sharp pain in my right ankle. I was bitten by a stray cat! I kept saying, "ow, ow, ow" because I didn't know what else to do... especially knowing that rabies is a problem there and I hadn't gotten a rabies vaccination before I left... so I was a little freaked out. I didn't think I would need the vaccination because I didn't plan on working with animals. Everyone around me at the table was really confused. Eventually my roommate Romy understood that I was bitten by a cat and so we took off to find a cab to go back to the house. We got home and started dialing some numbers, not sure who to talk to. A bunch of volunteers showed up soon after- they left when they realized what had happened. We decided the best thing was to call the house manager, Vini.
We got a hold of him and he told me I'd have to wait until the next day to go to the rabies clinic. I was convinced there was somewhere I could get a vaccination that night. So he came and took me to the hospital. One of the new volunteers, Suzanne, had been bitten by a dog in Nepal and been through a similar scenario so she came along for moral support. Vini was right, of course, and the hospital had tetanus vaccinations but no rabies vaccinations. So the doctor gave me a shot and some hydrogen peroxide and iodine to clean the bite.
I woke up the next morning even more convinced that I had rabies and that I would start foaming at any moment. Vini took me to the rabies clinic at the public medical center (free healthcare, what a concept) and Suzanne came along again. The sign said it was open from 7am-11am daily. It was comforting but somewhat disturbing. Also disturbing was the large group of people waiting for vaccinations. There was no line and no sign in sheet, just people spread throughout the open air waiting room. Somehow there was an order. When it was finally our turn, we went inside and the nurse gave me a quick shot and gave me instructions translated by Vini. She gave me a card with the dates on which I would need to get four more vaccinations and two of them were on travel days. One was the day I was leaving Salvador and another was the day I was heading home. You have to get the shots on the exact day or else they are useless. The next one would probably be fine but the one after would be tricky because I'd be getting home too late to do anything so I'd have to figure it out in Sao Paulo in Miami. After the first vaccination, I was more calm and the situation was little more humorous. When I got home and told the story, the first thing people said in response was "How did you get bitten by a cat in Brazil???" I have no idea!
There were large groups of tourists wearing nametags- "Hello my name is: Charlie Johnson from Oklahoma" I think it's really funny and a little dumb to go to an area that's known for tourist muggings and pretty much advertise that you're a gringo. The week before, a new volunteer was walking through Pelourinho and amidst the crowd and the tourist police, someone yanked her gold chain from her neck. She got it back, but it's not the best way to kick off your volunteer experience. Anyway, there were a lot of minor muggings but if you are careful and aware, you can avoid this.
We went to our regular fruitstand and ordered morangoroskas (fresh strawberries and vodka). We hung out with the regular street kids. I promised some of the kids a few weeks before that I would buy necklaces from them before I left. It's a difficult situation because you want to support them but at the same time, you feel like they need to be at home getting some sleep instead of selling things to tourists and staying out so late. But of course, it's a situation I don't fully understand. And at least many of the kids are making a few honest Reais selling necklaces instead of pickpocketing or being strung out on drugs and begging for change.
After hanging out in the square and checking out the concert, we went to watch Banda Dida and Swing do Pelo play their drums in the streets. The crowd was huge and there was a ton of energy in the air. Swing do Pelo usually starts on one street of Pelourinho and then goes to a stage in Largo do Pelourinho where they stop. But they kept going further through Pelourinho and they kept pounding away at their drums. I was dancing amongst many familiar faces and in that moment, I felt like I had assimilated. Throughout my life, almost everywhere I go, I've gotten used to not being able to blend in. So it's such a different feeling for me to feel completely at home. Until a few years ago when I started to learn I about Bahia, I wouldn't have expected to find that feeling in Brazil.
They kept playing but after some time we decided to leave to go to Habeas Copus. I was getting pretty decent at dancing to forro by this time and not stepping on quite so many toes. I decided to take a break and return to the table to chat with the other volunteers and my favorite waiter. I was standing by a table and all of a sudden I heard a cat growl and a second later felt a sharp pain in my right ankle. I was bitten by a stray cat! I kept saying, "ow, ow, ow" because I didn't know what else to do... especially knowing that rabies is a problem there and I hadn't gotten a rabies vaccination before I left... so I was a little freaked out. I didn't think I would need the vaccination because I didn't plan on working with animals. Everyone around me at the table was really confused. Eventually my roommate Romy understood that I was bitten by a cat and so we took off to find a cab to go back to the house. We got home and started dialing some numbers, not sure who to talk to. A bunch of volunteers showed up soon after- they left when they realized what had happened. We decided the best thing was to call the house manager, Vini.
We got a hold of him and he told me I'd have to wait until the next day to go to the rabies clinic. I was convinced there was somewhere I could get a vaccination that night. So he came and took me to the hospital. One of the new volunteers, Suzanne, had been bitten by a dog in Nepal and been through a similar scenario so she came along for moral support. Vini was right, of course, and the hospital had tetanus vaccinations but no rabies vaccinations. So the doctor gave me a shot and some hydrogen peroxide and iodine to clean the bite.
I woke up the next morning even more convinced that I had rabies and that I would start foaming at any moment. Vini took me to the rabies clinic at the public medical center (free healthcare, what a concept) and Suzanne came along again. The sign said it was open from 7am-11am daily. It was comforting but somewhat disturbing. Also disturbing was the large group of people waiting for vaccinations. There was no line and no sign in sheet, just people spread throughout the open air waiting room. Somehow there was an order. When it was finally our turn, we went inside and the nurse gave me a quick shot and gave me instructions translated by Vini. She gave me a card with the dates on which I would need to get four more vaccinations and two of them were on travel days. One was the day I was leaving Salvador and another was the day I was heading home. You have to get the shots on the exact day or else they are useless. The next one would probably be fine but the one after would be tricky because I'd be getting home too late to do anything so I'd have to figure it out in Sao Paulo in Miami. After the first vaccination, I was more calm and the situation was little more humorous. When I got home and told the story, the first thing people said in response was "How did you get bitten by a cat in Brazil???" I have no idea!
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A few tips to help you stay safe and happy in the wonderful city of Salvador
It seems that everyone knows someone who has a terrible story of how they were robbed in South America. Right before I left, everyone wanted to share these stories with me and discuss the synopses of Bus 174 and City of God (I didn't see these movies until after my trip). As I prepared for Brazil, I worried about the country's reputation and wondered how safe it would be there. But letting worries keep me from experiencing the fabulous places the world has to offer is not an option for me. Like with anywhere else, if you take a few precautions and are careful, you should be fine in Salvador. It has its fair share of problems, but I don't think it's as dangerous as Sao Paulo and Rio. A lot of people have questions about safety there, so here's some advice:
HANDLING MONEY AND CREDIT CARDS
- Never bring more than you need out with you. Figure out how much you'll need for whatever you're doing and leave credit cards, extra money and other valuables locked up in a safe (or in a hidden money belt), especially at night.
- ATMs are plentiful in Salvador and have the best exchange rates. When you're there, be discreet. Put your money away before you leave the ATM and always take your receipt (sometimes it takes awhile to print). You'll want to take large amounts of money so you don't have to keep going back and getting charged. It's best to take out money during the day at a busy (preferably non-touristy) location.
- Most ATMS give you your cash in 50 Reais bills if you take out a large amount. If you give a 50 Reais bill to a cab or vendor or even some stores, they look at you like you're insane and they never have enough change. Break up your 50s buying small things at a grocery store or other established stores and restaurants.
- If possible, avoid carrying a purse or sticking your wallet in your pocket. If you must take a purse, make sure it's small and it's best if it's the kind that fits under your armpit.
- Ladies: put your cash in your bra. It sounds funny and old fashioned but it definitely worked wonders for nights out.
BLENDING IN
- American tourists in developing countries have a tendency to look like they're going hiking, even when they're not: hiking boots or high tech sneakers, earth colored clothing, cargo pants, large backpacks, etc. Don't dress like this is Salvador- you'll be very easily spotted.
- Women in Salvador tend to dress up all day like they're going out at night, regardless of social class. You don't have to wear tube tops and short skirts everyday, but try to keep it feminine.
- Men tend to wear beachy-casual attire: t-shirts or tank tops, board shorts and flip-flops during the day. At night some will dress up more.
- If you look very Caucasian or eastern Asian, you will stand out. Some people will be instantly friendly and others will see you as an easy target. Try to look like you know what you're doing and where you're going.
- Don't wear flashy clothing and jewelry that is obviously brand name and expensive. Gold jewelry seems to be valuable there. If you're not sure about your jewelry, you can buy a lot of interesting cheap stuff when you're in Salvador.
- Even if you're in a tour group, don't wear nametags.
AT THE BEACH
- Locals don't bring big beach bags and coolers to the beach. The larger the bag, the more it is assumed that there is a ton of valuable stuff to steal inside of it. If you must come with your Ipod or any other valuable item, keep an eye on your stuff.
- At more secluded beaches you can bring more, but for the crowded social beaches, most people just come with a sarong and some cash for beverages and food.
- Keep an eye an everything. Sometimes even things that are useful but not expensive to you will disappear. Even in a large group, a seemingly innocent kid will walk off with your newly purchased Havaianas (popular and comfy Brazilian flip-flops).
AT NIGHT
- If you're alone at night, it's best to stick to crowded areas where there are a lot of people and a lot of cabs such as Pelourinho, Barra, and Rio Vermelho.
- If you're going into a favela at night, try to make sure your with a local you can trust.
- I've heard it's best to avoid the beach at night.
GENERAL
- Use your best judgement. If you sense an area or situation is shady, just leave!
- Neighborhoods can be patchy and while walking around you might find yourself on the edge of a favela. If you end up in a bad neighborhood by accident, just move quickly and avoid drawing attention to yourself by talking loudly in your own language.
- Get the recommended vaccinations. If for some reason you need to get some while you're there, it is surprisingly easy to do. I can't remember the name of the public hospital but I'm sure the staff at your hostel/hotel can tell you.
OTHER WAYS PEOPLE TRY TO GET YOUR MONEY WITHOUT ACTUALLY ROBBING YOU
- During street performances of capoeira and drumming, some people will walk around with a hat or bucket or something asking for donations for the group. There is a good chance that the person is not even affiliated with the group. Better to buy a CD or T-shirt or something else from the group if you want to support them.
- Sometimes beggars (especially near the Bonfim church or in Pelourinho) will come up to you and tie Bonfim ribbon around your wrist for good luck. They act like it's a gift, but they may continue to hang around and expect a gift of money in return. Never accept "gifts" from strangers.
- There are drug addicts who ask for money and it is quite obvious. Some of them are heartbreakingly young, but avoid giving money... you know where it's going to go.
- If possible, try to have a general idea of where things are. Sometimes cabs will take you the long way, wasting your time and money.
- Also in the taxi by the meter there is a number 1 or 2. If I remember correctly, if you have one or two people up to a certain point on weekdays, it should be set to #1. At night and weekends, it is set to #2, no matter how many people. Make sure it's not set to #2 when there is just one person during a weekday.
HANDLING MONEY AND CREDIT CARDS
- Never bring more than you need out with you. Figure out how much you'll need for whatever you're doing and leave credit cards, extra money and other valuables locked up in a safe (or in a hidden money belt), especially at night.
- ATMs are plentiful in Salvador and have the best exchange rates. When you're there, be discreet. Put your money away before you leave the ATM and always take your receipt (sometimes it takes awhile to print). You'll want to take large amounts of money so you don't have to keep going back and getting charged. It's best to take out money during the day at a busy (preferably non-touristy) location.
- Most ATMS give you your cash in 50 Reais bills if you take out a large amount. If you give a 50 Reais bill to a cab or vendor or even some stores, they look at you like you're insane and they never have enough change. Break up your 50s buying small things at a grocery store or other established stores and restaurants.
- If possible, avoid carrying a purse or sticking your wallet in your pocket. If you must take a purse, make sure it's small and it's best if it's the kind that fits under your armpit.
- Ladies: put your cash in your bra. It sounds funny and old fashioned but it definitely worked wonders for nights out.
BLENDING IN
- American tourists in developing countries have a tendency to look like they're going hiking, even when they're not: hiking boots or high tech sneakers, earth colored clothing, cargo pants, large backpacks, etc. Don't dress like this is Salvador- you'll be very easily spotted.
- Women in Salvador tend to dress up all day like they're going out at night, regardless of social class. You don't have to wear tube tops and short skirts everyday, but try to keep it feminine.
- Men tend to wear beachy-casual attire: t-shirts or tank tops, board shorts and flip-flops during the day. At night some will dress up more.
- If you look very Caucasian or eastern Asian, you will stand out. Some people will be instantly friendly and others will see you as an easy target. Try to look like you know what you're doing and where you're going.
- Don't wear flashy clothing and jewelry that is obviously brand name and expensive. Gold jewelry seems to be valuable there. If you're not sure about your jewelry, you can buy a lot of interesting cheap stuff when you're in Salvador.
- Even if you're in a tour group, don't wear nametags.
AT THE BEACH
- Locals don't bring big beach bags and coolers to the beach. The larger the bag, the more it is assumed that there is a ton of valuable stuff to steal inside of it. If you must come with your Ipod or any other valuable item, keep an eye on your stuff.
- At more secluded beaches you can bring more, but for the crowded social beaches, most people just come with a sarong and some cash for beverages and food.
- Keep an eye an everything. Sometimes even things that are useful but not expensive to you will disappear. Even in a large group, a seemingly innocent kid will walk off with your newly purchased Havaianas (popular and comfy Brazilian flip-flops).
AT NIGHT
- If you're alone at night, it's best to stick to crowded areas where there are a lot of people and a lot of cabs such as Pelourinho, Barra, and Rio Vermelho.
- If you're going into a favela at night, try to make sure your with a local you can trust.
- I've heard it's best to avoid the beach at night.
GENERAL
- Use your best judgement. If you sense an area or situation is shady, just leave!
- Neighborhoods can be patchy and while walking around you might find yourself on the edge of a favela. If you end up in a bad neighborhood by accident, just move quickly and avoid drawing attention to yourself by talking loudly in your own language.
- Get the recommended vaccinations. If for some reason you need to get some while you're there, it is surprisingly easy to do. I can't remember the name of the public hospital but I'm sure the staff at your hostel/hotel can tell you.
OTHER WAYS PEOPLE TRY TO GET YOUR MONEY WITHOUT ACTUALLY ROBBING YOU
- During street performances of capoeira and drumming, some people will walk around with a hat or bucket or something asking for donations for the group. There is a good chance that the person is not even affiliated with the group. Better to buy a CD or T-shirt or something else from the group if you want to support them.
- Sometimes beggars (especially near the Bonfim church or in Pelourinho) will come up to you and tie Bonfim ribbon around your wrist for good luck. They act like it's a gift, but they may continue to hang around and expect a gift of money in return. Never accept "gifts" from strangers.
- There are drug addicts who ask for money and it is quite obvious. Some of them are heartbreakingly young, but avoid giving money... you know where it's going to go.
- If possible, try to have a general idea of where things are. Sometimes cabs will take you the long way, wasting your time and money.
- Also in the taxi by the meter there is a number 1 or 2. If I remember correctly, if you have one or two people up to a certain point on weekdays, it should be set to #1. At night and weekends, it is set to #2, no matter how many people. Make sure it's not set to #2 when there is just one person during a weekday.
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