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The white quarters of Granada

Granada Travel Blog | Travelogue | Travel Journal

In may 2003 I went backpacking through the south of Spain with my classmates. It was a memorable trip I will never forget. Here you can read some translations out of my diary I wrote back than. Hope you enjoy it!

The white quarters of Granada

Peter is a better juggler than Andrew. We wait for the bus to Granada as we pass the time, entertaining passengers. The journey will take us three full hours.

By the time we arrive in the Granada bus station it is early evening. It isn't a long walk to the camping, where we set up our tents. Then we catch a bus downtown and find something to eat. Mmmm, those lovely Spanish tortilla's!
After dinner it's too late for another bus. All a bit tipsy from the wine we decide to walk our way back, but this turns out to be quite difficult. Nobody had bothered to bring a map or watch the route closely, so the only option left are the road signs. Streets are empty at this our, especially when we leave the old centre.

Mozaic in the Alhambra
After some time our groups split up or loose each other, and five of us end up wondering through Granada alone. We walk for more than ninety minutes! We must have been walking in circles for sure... then finally we reach the camping and get some sleep.

Early next day we climb the steep hill that leads to the Alhambra. It costs me quite some sweat but yet I reach the top in one peace. It's a long walk but certainly a must. Though there are tourist busses driving up and down I feel anyone riding them is just lazy.
We decide to have our breakfast pick nick here at the gates of the palace, among the morning mists hanging under the trees.

La Alhambra is even more beautiful than I possibly could imagine.
The Alhambra just before sunset
I would like to describe the atmosphere, light and architecture, but I'm afraid no words exist to do so. Even a painting or picture could not reproduce this place in its true form: pure. The Mesquita (which was truly wonderful) is meaningless compared to this huge palace. I feel like its a building with no baroque, no golden ceilings and no pretensions. Yet at the same time, it is breathtaking and extremely overwhelming. A masterpiece in peaceful beauty.

I assume this place was build for Allah, he must be satisfied. I which I could live here, among the engraved walls, pillars and the fountains. I might dream that, tonight.

In the afternoon we leave the Alhambra and take a walk uphill, into the Albaicin quarter and its white houses, decorated with flowers. Under a tree in the shade, sitting on a little square, high above town, we found ourselves a place so hard to reach even tourists don't come here anymore.
View at Granada's quarters from the Alhambra
This is an area were only true Spanish people live, and where shops are build for them, not for visitors. It's a small square surrounded by cafes and terraces. But it is siesta now and everything's closed.

People living here are older than the ones in the centre. Most of them are really old. It's amazing to see them climb the low stares and hills with so much ease. Welcome at plaza Langa.
We find a small restaurant and enter the terrace. This is no fancy place at all, but the waiters here are so happy to meat our large group of costumers that they treat us as kings. Rushing through the kitchen they try to find us all cutlery as quick as possible. Almost everyone receives forks and knives of different sets, of different colours and forms. But we are seated and order paella for lunch.
Some waiters climb the tables to pick fruits from the trees and hand it to us as desert, we get drinks from the house as well.


This place is called La Higuera. I will write a review of it soon.

When the night falls we pick nick uphill, where we have the most wonderful sight on the Alhambra and the snowy tops of the Sierra Nevada behind it. The palace is lightened at night and glows out over the city. With the sun going down behind us we sing songs for everyone who likes to hear it (and for those who don't). This was an unforgettable day, and an even more remarkable night.

la-tessaa says:
I am going to Granada 31 August for 4 months! :)
Posted on: Jun 26, 2008
tinna says:
Have tapas at The Beauty and the Beast!
Posted on: Jun 20, 2007
Pearl510 says:
It's even better in reality ;)
Posted on: Apr 29, 2007
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Mozaic in the Alhambra
Mozaic in the Alhambra
The Alhambra just before sunset
The Alhambra just before sunset
View at Granadas quarters from …
View at Granada's quarters from ...
This is a small and simple restaurant which serves mainly traditional Spanish dishes. There isn't that much to choose from, but the people here are so extremely nice! I will remember them for ever!

I've written about this place in my journal entry of Granada and I feel like everyone should go here just to meet those friendly owners.

We went there with a group of about twenty people. Though this place is really small we could sit outside on the terrace. We all had different types of cutlery and glasses, but we didn't bother. The waiters climbed the tables to pick us fruit from their trees and offered us drinks, chants and stories.

The paella we had here was also good. Who ever is in Granada's old Albaicin should go here to meet them. The really deserve a huge tip!
La Higuera
Sacromonte is the (former) gypsy quarter of Granada. It is certainly worth a visit just because of the area is wonderful to stroll around. Apart from that, there is the abbey to admire. This building was constructed on the Valperaiso mountain and looks down over the city.

In the late 16th century two men came to the place (there wasn't anything build back then), to look for a treasure. They never found it, but instead they noticed a cave in which they found some lead plates with Arabic inscriptions. Those lines told the story of the martyr "Sint Tesiphon", and when the archbishop heard this he ordered investigations. More plates were found, telling different parts of Tesiphon's story and the story of two other saints: Cecilio and Hiscius. Apart from that an oven with ashes was discovered as well. People assumed that this was the place were the holly men were murdered, and decided to build an abbey to honor them.

Two years after the first plates were found, money was raised for the constructions. The symbol of it was a star, still visible everywhere in the building. When the archbishop was send to Sevilla in 1610, construction works were stopped... But inside the library one can see the original plans, which were never executed. Later on a college was added to the building, so now there are three parts: the seminar, the abbey and the school.

In the museum many artworks are to be admired, among which the leaden plates and some valuable paintings. There is a statue for every martyr, under which the ashes are preserved. The catacombs under the church can be visited as well. You'll find some small chapels here, the oven in which the martyrs are said to be burned, and a collection of paintings and sculptures. Remarkable is the stone of which is said that every woman who kisses it, will find a husband in the next year. It didn't work for me though, but I go back there in some weeks, so who knows... I might get a second chance ;)
420 km (261 miles) traveled
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