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A drive in the country

Varazdin Travel Blog › entry 2 of 23 › view all entries

Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Albania, Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina by Train, Bus, and Car. The idea is to swim in the Black Sea, Ohrid Sea, and the Adriatic Sea all in one trip. You have to have a goal after all...

A drive in the country

The Orangemobile - takes up only half a parking spot...
The orangemobile, the 1974 Renault that helped me miss the plane and get an extra week in Croatia last year... made it without problems this year on a big loop around northwestern Croatia.  We took the back roads through the country to avoid the outrageous tolls charged on the Croatian highways ...ok, and the orangemobile really can't get up to highway speeds either : )

We visited our friends Vedrana and Bruno and attended their baby's first birthdayparty. I'd last seen her only at only 1 month old last year, so there was quite a difference. She quickly discarded the presents and played with the boxes and wrapping paper. I always like visiting them, they're nice folks and there's always a parade of delicious foods to try... This time it was Bosnian pita - long, rolls of pastry filled with cheese, potatoes and other good things, coiled in a pan and baked.
In the country


I really like Varazdin. It's a little baroque town near the Drava River, up by the borders with Slovenia and Hungary, anchored by a beautifully restored Habsburg era castle. I visited last year, but again this year only got part of a day here. Again, the air was filled with ringing bells throughout the day, from the churches scattered around the city. The cobbled streets are clean and wide and there's usually something going on in the main square. This time there was a band singing Beatles cover songs... but they didn't speak English, so it was more just the sounds of the English words... sounded pretty close though if you didn't listen carefully... "Hey Joooooo, on maki baaaaaaah, tako saaasoooo an maki ve-daaaaa" They sounded good though. We retreated at the end of the day to Z's grandparent's old house for the night.

In the morning we headed down rural back roads towards Trakoscan Castle.



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The Orangemobile - takes up only h…
The Orangemobile - takes up only
In the country
In the country
Corn and scattered houses between …
Corn and scattered houses betwee
Most of the farm houses have garde…
Most of the farm houses have gar
A fortress-like structure on a farm
A fortress-like structure on a farm
Plenty of tractors and horse drawn…
Plenty of tractors and horse dra
Forests line road as you climb int…
Forests line road as you climb i
Dropping out of the hills into Var…
Dropping out of the hills into V
MMmmmmm... Bosnian pita - potato, …
MMmmmmm... Bosnian pita - potato
Little Klara was only a few weeks …
Little Klara was only a few week
Zvonka and her god-daughter out on…
Zvonka and her god-daughter out
Zvonka, Vedrana, Klara Mali, and B…
Zvonka, Vedrana, Klara Mali, and
Lots of sweets available in Varazd…
Lots of sweets available in Vara
The main square
The main square
Another huge sun clock
Another huge sun clock
Typical Baroque architecture in to…
Typical Baroque architecture in
A Braille model of the main square…
A Braille model of the main squa
A sewer cover...
A sewer cover...
Fried eggplant with mushrooms at l…
Fried eggplant with mushrooms at
Zalogajcek - Vegetarian food in Croatia...
(update - I think it's gone now, I didn't see it there this year...)

You wouldn't even notice this place in California, but in a land of whole lambs turning on spits, and where ordering "ne meso, molim" (without meat please) gets you chicken instead of pork... this is a rarity. The little restaurant and patio serves up dishes from containers displayed in a little "ice cream counter". Entrees, sauces, bread, and sides are sold separately, so you assemble your own dishes and meals.

Items are plain, potatoes, boiled carrots, cabbage, and other vegetables with sauces like tomato, mushroom, and spinach. I tried fried eggplant with a side of mushroom and leek sauce and shared a salad of cut cucumbers, red peppers and carrots. Good, but plain; much better once salt and pepper were added. I'll have to try other dishes next time. Dining was on a little patio in an opening between shops off of the main square, quite and enjoyable in the morning with the usual chorus of Varazin church bells in the background.
Eggplant with leek and mushroom
ivana says:
It better be gone! Things on a spit covered in beer are the best...we even make it here. Some of my dad's friends built brick spits in their backyards lol. And then we roast a pig every chance we can find. Man, now I'm craving sheep. Good review though!
Posted on: Apr 09, 2009
cneoridium says:
Don't worry, when I went back this winter it was gone... No, I think having things on a spit is key to success there... : )
Posted on: Apr 09, 2009
ivana says:
Wait...you found a vegetarian place...in my country?? When did that happen?? So weird...I can't imagine a meal without meat, especially there. Omg I love lambs on a spit...pigs...and sheep are the best! Yum!
Posted on: Apr 09, 2009
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