Stuck in Herceg-Novi

Herceg-Novi Travel Blog

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The "reserved seats" didn't exist, as usual, so we stood for the long bus trip across Montenegro
We rolled into Herceg-Novi late at night, ready to switch to the next bus and get some sleep. In what seems to be a typical occurance, the bus was oversold and full when it came into town, so we stood in the aisle for the trip across Montenegro. Actually I rode in the stairwell next to the driver... The highway hugs the coastline, but the buses drive onto ferries and float across some of the deeper inlets, saving hours of driving. (TIP - take the bus that includes ferries, it saves hours for a coupe Euros more)

At Herceg-Novi things went bad. I turns out, as a true tourist trap, they've started running busses in, but not out at night. This makes it so you have to stay in one of their hotels as you pass through... It's a tourist destination, but also a big transfer point, so they must be making a killing!

There were the usual home owners out at the bus station hawking rooms for rent.
The bus rides a ferry across an inlet, saving hours of driving around it
Expensive though, 40-50 Euros for the night, which we of course didn't have. To make it worse, there was a huge concert at the castle that night, so the town was packed. We scouted out some parks to sleep in, but the teenagers from the concert had already staked them out, and worse it was raining.

Finally, we wandered back to the bus station and found the last rental lady again as she was giving up for the night with no takers. We finally negotiated a "you may as well make a couple of Euros instead of the room going empty" prices and got a room. It was still one our most expensive, and it was lame, just one of the kid's rooms in the middle of small house, like if you stay at the in-law's house that you don't know for Christmas. There was a huge rock concert that night in the old castle overlooking the town, which explained the crowds.
Looking really tired on the ferry. It was another 14 hour day of traveling and hundreds of miles
We ate our usual red pepper paste, bread, soft cheese, and beer with crowds of highs school kids drinking and smoking down on the breakwater.

The town is really beautiful, even if it's expensive and touristy. It's built on a steep slope between the Adriatic and the mountain foothills. There are big, beautiful houses interspersed with ancient fortifications and castles on the hillside, and a nice harbor, protected by offshore islands.

One really weird thing that happened was that Zvonka walked up the hill to buy bus tickets when the office opened at 9. As I sat guarding the backpacks, I realized that this was the first time that we'd been out of sight of each other for the whole month. That happens when you travel, you're together 24 hours a day, always in each other's peripheral vision, to keep together.
Church in the darkness
.. It was weird getting back and being alone for the first time in a month too.... but anyway... we finished exploring the town and got on the bus for the next to last leg of the journey, back to her parent's beach house to hang out with them before heading home.

Oh yeah, never cross the border into Croatia at the peak of tourist season. It took a couple hours to get across, in an endless line of cars and busses. When we finally crossed, it was nice to be back "home". I swear the trees and hills and shore are nicer there than other places...
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The reserved seats didnt exist,…
The "reserved seats" didn't exist…
The bus rides a ferry across an in…
The bus rides a ferry across an i…
Looking really tired on the ferry.…
Looking really tired on the ferry…
Church in the darkness
Church in the darkness
Grabbing a drink for free...
Grabbing a drink for free...
Huge concert at the town castle th…
Huge concert at the town castle t…
Skateboarding is not a crime
"Skateboarding is not a crime"
Sitting with the backpacks while Z…
Sitting with the backpacks while …
The whole town is on a steep slope…
The whole town is on a steep slop…
Heceg Novi harbor
Heceg Novi harbor
The square at 9am, deserted since …
The square at 9am, deserted since…
So tired....
So tired....
Z waits on the stairs while I take…
Z waits on the stairs while I tak…
Looking out over the bay
Looking out over the bay
Castles and fortifications mixed w…
Castles and fortifications mixed …
The grumpy landlady kicked us out …
The grumpy landlady kicked us out…
A couple hours at the Croatian bor…
A couple hours at the Croatian bo…
Cars and busses backed up for miles
Cars and busses backed up for miles
So thats where those tall skinny …
So that's where those tall skinny…
Finally, back in beautiful Croatia!
Finally, back in beautiful Croatia!
Herceg-Novi
photo by: cneoridium