Ahhhh, Back Swimming in my Favorite Sea

Sovlje Travel Blog

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Happy
Our long journey was finally over.  We did our best to show up at Zvonka's parent's house unannounced, as a surprise...  One more series of busses and walking wouldn't hurt us, even though they could have picked us up.  They're the nicest, most generous friends.  I'd meant to spend a week with them, but we sort of got carried away traveling and only had a day.  I felt so bad, she'd converted her dad's workroom into a guest room for me to stay in, with a comfortable bed and nicely decorated, but I would only sleep there two nights.

Even after 4 days of continuous travel back across eastern Europe, we still had to drag the computer out onto the porch and go through the travel pictures, late into the night, drinking homemade red wine and lighting mosquito coils to ward off the unwanted guests attracted to the light of the monitor.
Even after days of travel, we dragged the computer out on the porch to show pictures when we arrived late that night
..  In the morning we drove up to Murter Island for breakfast (next entry), then headed immediately into the water.

Sovlje is a tiny village, it can't be more than 60-70 people, at the head of a tiny bay, north of Vodice.  It's a wonderful place squeezed between the beach and the steep limestone mountains that border the coast.  It's pretty much just a cluster of houses, but there's a small town, Tribunj, about 10 minutes walk away with a grocery store and post office and such.  There's a horrible beach by the tiny harbor that's sort of a sidewalk by the water with 50 German tourists laying on it.  We always swim at a secret beach reached by a little trail through the limestone rock and pines, across a point.  The shore is huge, cracked, limestone blocks where you can find little flat spots and hollows to lay in, and the water is swimming pool clear and bright.
Deep Pivo - nothing less than 2 liters, and a sport top so you don't waste time unscrewing lids...
  The bottom is white limestone too, so it's nearly surface bright 20 feet underwater.  Clothing isn't real popular there so I always kind of stand out as the only American, wearing big board shorts instead of the traditional local... nothing.

The next 24 hours until the bus came were spent swimming and being stuffed full of wonderful Croatian foods by Zvonka's mom - stuffed peppers, sliced potatoes and eggs in sour cream, all of my favorites.  There serious about beer too, it comes in 6-packs of 2 liter bottles (12 liters at a time!) for just a few dollars.  It's actually not bad beer either "Deep Pivo" it's called.  The homemade wine is strong, so I was shown again the proper techniques of diluting with ice water or mixing it with Coke (it's actually pretty good, I hate to admit...)  There's a better description of Sovlje from 2007 here .

The bus finally came the next afternoon, we said our good-byes, and headed back to Zagreb.
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Happy
Happy
Even after days of travel, we drag…
Even after days of travel, we dra…
Deep Pivo - nothing less than 2 li…
Deep Pivo - nothing less than 2 l…
Lighting a bug coil, the computer …
Lighting a bug coil, the computer…
My own bed in Croatia!  I was sad …
My own bed in Croatia! I was sad…
Zs bed is cool, decorated with th…
Z's bed is cool, decorated with t…
All meals are eaten outside on the…
All meals are eaten outside on th…
View of islands out the window
View of islands out the window
The back yard - figs, olives, grap…
The back yard - figs, olives, gra…
Potatoes, almost like a stroganoff…
Potatoes, almost like a stroganof…
Potatoes with sliced hard boiled e…
Potatoes with sliced hard boiled …
Ever present cats
Ever present cats
The beach house, front wall still …
The beach house, front wall still…
There are a lot of these... tracto…
There are a lot of these... tract…
See, this is serious beer, Croatia…
See, this is serious beer, Croati…
Hrvoje and I built this... thing t…
Hrvoje and I built this... thing …
The not so pleasant concrete beach…
The not so pleasant concrete beac…
Across the point to the secret bea…
Across the point to the secret be…
The sea appears out of the pines a…
The sea appears out of the pines …
The secret beach was crowded... wi…
The secret beach was crowded... w…
Croatians love rocky beaches, I th…
Croatians love rocky beaches, I t…
Relaxing under the pines on a rock…
Relaxing under the pines on a roc…
Lots of sleeping, of course
Lots of sleeping, of course
Underwater
Underwater
Offshore
Offshore
A visit to the surface
A visit to the surface
Heading out into the Adriatic Sea
Heading out into the Adriatic Sea
Looking  out across the clear wate…
Looking out across the clear wat…
Huge sponge colony
Huge sponge colony
The usual view of Zvonka in the wa…
The usual view of Zvonka in the w…
Tiny shrimp
Tiny shrimp
...like a swimming pool
...like a swimming pool
The hill in the background is the …
The hill in the background is the…
Hiking back from the beach
Hiking back from the beach
Figs
Figs
Grapes
Grapes
Berries growing along the path
Berries growing along the path
Ancient shed across the street
Ancient shed across the street
Clear waters
Clear waters
Someone had tagged rocks along muc…
Someone had tagged rocks along mu…
We got a good start at cleaning it…
We got a good start at cleaning i…
Back in the land of shiny, western…
Back in the land of shiny, wester…
Being instructed on the proper tec…
Being instructed on the proper te…
Ok, now I can do it right...
Ok, now I can do it right...
Pasta with tomatoes and squash
Pasta with tomatoes and squash
...shredded cabbage with vinegar
...shredded cabbage with vinegar
It was really good... Z hates to w…
It was really good... Z hates to …
Learning the proper technique of m…
Learning the proper technique of …
Back for the last swim of the day
Back for the last swim of the day
Making sure not to leave the beach…
Making sure not to leave the beac…
Hrvoje and Nada watch our bus pull…
Hrvoje and Nada watch our bus pul…
Sovlje
photo by: cneoridium