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Wagners? What a miserable bunch.

Frankfurt am Main Travel Blog › entry 7 of 8 › view trip summary

New Year in Frankfurt and Bamberg. And no, I didn't have a meal on my own, it's part of the German traditional New Year celebrations... you'd better read the New Year review to find out more.

Wagners? What a miserable bunch.

So what to do on New Years Day when Germany has basically shut down for the duration?

 

A less than early morning start revealed that the general plague of flu and cold infecting our little band of happy travellers was showing no signs of abating.  That said we're on holiday and we can hardly spend the day just moping about in the flat doing nothing.

 

So after a bit of bargaining it was decided we should take advantage of what was billed as The Kings Trail or something.  This was basically a round Frankfurt walk designed to tae you round all the old parts of the town and provide some specific historical information about sites on the way.

 

The whole thing was sponsored by a group of museums and was focussed on the history of Frankfurt as the seat of the German electors.  What this basically meant was that all the various princes from the different regions would get together to elect a new Emperor.  Apparently they used to all just tip up, have a quick look around, find a house they liked and just move in - whether the occupants were happy about it or not!!

 

The walk then took you round the old town to the sites of various buildings by the useful device of a series of red dots on the pavement which actually added to the fun by needing you to scan the way ahead for signs of the markings.  At each historical site an information board was erected with the clever device of having an etching of how the area used to appear on a large window which meant you could look through it and see the old buildings superimposed onto the new.

 

The walk itself was an excellent way to spend and afternoon (despite the inclement weather) and took us round lots of bits of the old town we've never visited before.  The only reason I've not reviewed it as something to do was the fact that it was apparently only temporary and was due to finish in mid January which is a shame as it was all a very good idea.  Hopefully once they analyse the response to it the city might think about setting up a more permanent trail of a similar nature.

 

Having stopped off part way round to grab some food and drinks in Café Mozart we completed the tour and ducked into some faux Bavarian bar at the back of the Cathedral just as the heavens opened.  As the rain lashed down we sat in the window watching people scurry past as we sipped yet more wine and began to warm up somewhat.

 

That evening we elected to - you guessed it - find a bar and have some more wine and food.  Illness had abated somewhat so everyone was feeling more chirpy than the previous evening so we duly set off into the town centre in the hope that some of the busier bars would be starting to open by now.

 

And duly some of them were but unfortunately not all of them.  This meant that the choice was therefore limited but the open places were very busy.

 

We did try a place called Wagners which is renowned as one of the best beerkellers in Frankfurt but on arrival it was heaving.  Unfortunately not only was it heaving but the staff completely ignored us when we went in, kept pushing past us and then shouted at us when we tried to look for a table.  Highly rude, arrogant and obnoxious - don't go there, with customer service like that they don't deserve customers.

 

So off we trotted to try and find somewhere else.  This meant we had the complications of finding somewhere that was a) open b) not full and c) served vegetarian food.  Not an easy task and so we wandered around aimlessly for a while, our evening disappearing before us.

 

Fortunately after some tramping about we happened upon Strewwelpeter tucked away from the road.  The vegetarian options weren't immense (basically it was a choice of Frankfurter Grune Sausse or nothing) but it did meet all three criteria so in we went.

 

Despite not looking too exciting from the outside this proved to be an excellent choice as what it lacked in image it made up for in charm and friendliness.  We were immediately ushered to a table and the food came in double quick time once we'd ordered (see review below).  As usual we supped wine and beer and amused ourselves by watching the waitress sprinting (literally) from one end of the room to the other serving food - even managing to trip up along the way at one point and fall head over heels.

 

Poor luv!

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Café Mozart is another of Frankfurt's traditional Kaffe un Kuchen places with all that that entails.

Space is at a premium which means that the small tables are wedged into every available inch of floor.  It's not uncomfortable or anything as this is seems to be the standard sort of layout for these joints but it does mean you’re always in close proximity to your fellow diners.

A vast array of cakes are on display in the glass counters for your inspection and to aid any decision making process.  The rest of the menu contains the usual mix of breakfast and brunch type snacks (eggs, ham, toast etc in various combinations), various cakes and deserts and a smattering of larger meals.  These type of cafes all seem to have exactly the same choice on their menus - perhaps that’s all part of the tradition.

This sort of place is always thronging with pensioners but that’s not something that should deter you unduly.  The number of customers does make for a vibrant atmosphere, even if some of them do seem old enough to have been coming in here before German unification (the first time round!)

The food is warm, tasty and wholesome but it does lack something on its rival Café Liebfrauenberg in that it's location does not afford it outdoor seating so it might not seem as appealing on a hot summers day.
Dr Heinrich Hoffman lived and worked in Frankfurt and was the author of a rather odd book of cautionary tales for young children. You know the sort of thing - 'girl plays with matches, cats get upset, girl catches fire and burns to death, cats cry' or 'boy sucks thumb, mental bloke comes in house and cuts his thumbs off to teach him a lesson' - that sort of thing!!

Strewwelpeter is the lead story in this surreal tome and concerns a boy called Peter who refuses to cut his hair or finger nails so they grow really long and he looks all scruffy and no one likes him. How that then gets a bar named after him I’m not quite sure.

Situated on the edge of Sachsenhausen, tucked away at the back of a small square Strewwelpeter is a squat, old fashioned looking pub. The interior matches it’s eccentric name as it’s decorated with a bizarre mixture of weird paintings and odd trinkets. The room forms one long sort of 'corridor' with the tables lined up accordingly. The food is cooked in a small kitchen at the far end of the bar and served through a hatch dressed up to look like a stable - I told you it was eccentric.

The food is the usual fayre, cheap and hearty and quick to appear after ordering. Not only is it quick to get cooked, it's even quicker to get to your table as I’ve never seen serving staff moving with such speed! The waitress was literally running down the bar with the plates as she was serving them. The place wasn’t particularly busy - I get the feeling that they just always serve like that.

Warm, cosy, inviting and friendly it's well worth a visit to get a taste of a real untouched German bar within a large city. There seemed to be a decent mix of locals, tourists and backpackers that lent a nice atmosphere to the place.

The only unfortunate downside was that on visiting the toilets out the back it smelt like they could really do with their drains sorting out!!
Strewwelpeter - handsome fella a
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