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Return to St. Thomas

Charlotte Amalie Travel Blog › entry 5 of 8 › view all entries

In June 2008 we cruised aboard Carnival Miracle from New York to San Juan, St. Thomas, Tortola, and Virgin Gorda. Great port itinerary, with historical sites, natural features, a fiesta, and a cross section of Caribbean cultures to experience.

Return to St. Thomas

Tall ship at St. Thomas

Carnival Miracle arrived at St. Thomas in the early morning. We had also visited St. Thomas on our cruise last summer. Then, we we saw Magens Bay, the scenic overlooks, Blackbeard's Castle (Skytsborg), and the historic houses along The 99 Steps.  (See my June 2007 St. Thomas/Charlotte Amalie blogs.) This year, the family wanted to focus on Charlotte Amalie and doing some shopping. After disembarking at the West Indian Company pier, we went to the taxi stand at Havensight Mall and took a taxi into downtown Charlotte Amalie. (The colorful taxis are jitneys made out of pickup trucks with rows of seats fixed to the bed.) The taxi left us off  at the head of Dronningens Gade, the main street ($3.00 per person).

Dronningens Gade is the main street and the street where stores large and small are located.

St. Thomas harbor
Susan wanted to look at a neckalce, Julia at perfume, and Drew to seach for a wallet and belt. We checked out A.H. Riise Mall (actually trading rows along old warehouse alleys), Hibiscus Alley, and Creques Alley. We also visited Captain's Corner for T-shirts and trinkets and Del Sol for their color-changing apparel items. (I found a new travel cap there. You may see it turn up in future photos!) I also stocked up on Caribbean and Jamaican coffee at Down Island Traders. Lunch was at Glady's Cafe. Then we followed Kyst Vejen (or Waterfront Drive) back along the harbor to the vendor's plaza near the taxi stand.

It was time now for me to take photos and I went off on my own expedition in search of the historic sites around the base of Government Hill.

(Susan, Drew, and Julia explored the outdoor vendor's plaza.) In this area are many structures dating from the Danish ownership of St. Thomas. The Post Office reminded me of early 20th century tropical structures in Balboa, Panama. Between it and the vendor's plaza is Emancipation Gardens Park. Up from the post office on Kongens Gade is Hotel 1829 dating from 1829, originally a house. (It's been operated as a hotel since 1906.) The bottom of the 18th century 99 Steps, which we had descended last year coming down from Blackbeard's Castle, comes out nearby. Down the street Frederik Lutheran Chuch was the principal Danish church, built in 1793.

I walked up to the entrance of Fort Christian, begun in 1670 and named for Danish King Christian V (1646-1699).

(Christian's wife was Charlotte Amalie, and the town is named for her.) The fort is now a musem, but it's been closed for restoration since 2005. The entrance was still fenced off, but I was able to take some photos of the 1874 gate and clock tower. (The fort was built to overlook and defend St. Thomas harbor. The two stone towers now called Blackbeard's Castle and Bluebeard's Castle served as elevated lookout posts for the fort.) 

Coming back full circle, I returned to Empancipation Gardens Park. The park commemorates the emancipation of slaves in the Danish West Indes in 1848. There is a commemorative sculpture entitled Freedom in the park, along with a bust of King Christian IX and a replica of the Liberty Bell, neatly tying together the strands of St. Thomas' history.

tj1777 says:
I never actually been - but in the city's heyday it was actually the second biggest city in Denmark - only Copenhagen were bigger.

Dronningens Gade actually mean the queens street and kongens gade mean the kings street.
Posted on: Dec 15, 2008
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Tall ship at St. Thomas
Tall ship at St. Thomas
St. Thomas harbor
St. Thomas harbor
Carnival Miracle at West Indian Co…
Carnival Miracle at West Indian
Iguana on the dock
Iguana on the dock
Jitney taxi to downtown
Jitney taxi to downtown
Side alley
Side alley
Ammolite
Ammolite
Hibiscus Alley
Hibiscus Alley
Dronningens Gade
Dronningens Gade
Dronningens Gade
Dronningens Gade
Shopkeeper
Shopkeeper
Trompeter Gade
Trompeter Gade
Raadets Gade
Raadets Gade
Kyst Vejen
Kyst Vejen
Carnival Miracle
Carnival Miracle
Ferry to St. John
Ferry to St. John
Ferry at Kings Wharf
Ferry at King's Wharf
Charlotte Amalie Waterfront
Charlotte Amalie Waterfront
Kyst Vejen (Veterans Drive)
Kyst Vejen (Veteran's Drive)
Vendors Plaza
Vendor's Plaza
US Post Office, Charlotte Amalie
US Post Office, Charlotte Amalie
Post Office
Post Office
Freedom at Emancipation Gardens
Freedom at Emancipation Gardens
Bust of King Christian IX
Bust of King Christian IX
Bandstand at Emancipation Gardens
Bandstand at Emancipation Gardens
Hotel 1829
Hotel 1829
Bottom of The 99 Steps
Bottom of The 99 Steps
Frederik Lutheran Church (1793)
Frederik Lutheran Church (1793)
Historical Marker at Fort Christian
Historical Marker at Fort Christian
Fort Christian clock tower
Fort Christian clock tower
Fort Christian entrance
Fort Christian entrance
Fort Christian (1671)
Fort Christian (1671)
Enjoying Caribbean Cuisine at Gladys’ Café
Gladys' Café in downtown Charlotte Amalie serves a variety of Caribbean and West Indian dishes. It's a great place to sample the local cuisine of the islands!

Sandwiches and entrees focus on chicken and seafood recipes. I liked the Jerk Chicken Breast sandwich while Susan chose the Chicken Roti and Drew the Mahi-Mahi sandwich. (Roti is a West Indian curry dish.) Gladys offers three flavors of her own Caribbean hot sauce to further spice up your selection!

We enjoyed Gladys' Conch Fritters as an appetizer. (Conch shellfish meat fried in batter.)

Recommended for lunch when you are in St. Thomas. (Gladys' is easy to visit when you are in port on a cruise and not as crowded as restaurants closer to the downtown taxi-drop off area.)
Gladys’ Café entrance
Gladys’ Café interior
Conch Fritters at Gladys’ Café
Gladys’ Café sign
The 99 Steps
The 99 Steps is a walkway leading up Government Hill in Charlotte Amalie. Charlotte Amalie lies at the base of the steep hills that dominate the topography of St. Thomas. As the town grew aways from the waterside, it could only expand upward along the hills. A series of walkways constructed of wood, stone, or brick once ran up and down the hillsides. Such stairs were more practical and less expensive than building switchback streets to reach up into the hills (and streets were not needed before modern vehicles came on the scene).

The most famous of the uphill walkways is the 99 Steps. The 99 steps were built in the 18th Century using bricks sent from Denmark as ships' ballast. (Some assert that there are really 103 or 106 steps, but I didn't count them!) The steps seem like they were built to last and I wonder if they were not actually constructed as a means to connect Fort Christian with the Skytsborg watchtower.

The steps are well maintained today and used as a means for locals to walk up and down Government Hill as well as by visitors seeking panoramic views over St. Thomas harbor. I recommend taking a walk along the steps. The steps begin on Kongens Gade, next to Hotel 1829 and end near the Three Queens of the Virgin Islands monument, with many views, sights, and restored homes to see along the way. Further up the hill is Blackbeard's Castle (once Skytsborg).
Beginning of the the 99 Steps
Tropical foliage along the 99 Steps
Along the 99 Steps
Top of the 99 Steps
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