"cuando quieres algo, todo el universo conspira para que realices tu deseo."
acantilados en la serra da capelada Travel Blog› entry 13 of 48 › view all entries
July 4th, 2008 – by: lauro
after our hearty breakfast at the comedor (dining area) of the grandal-caneiro family (where pablo's mother - señora lucia was literally feeding me with bananas lol) pablo and pablo's father, señor manolo was waiting for us.
we drove in two cars, the girls: rubs, lori and hannah who were with pablo because he can speak a bit of english (lol) and the boys: me, alex and ben drove with señor manolo, it is a little bit difficult because señor manolo speaks only galician and vernacular spanish, and i can speak and understand (more or less) only castillian. ben sat in the front with señor manolo because i told him so hahaha and i sat with alex.
as we drove i was speechless between the progress of ben and señor manolo as they were actually talking to each other! with ben speaking in english - looking at me, and señor manolo in galician - looking at me and turning back his head off from the road.
we drove again into much smaller towns and villages - going up into zigzag roads and through forests of eucalyptus trees. after 30 minutes of driving, we stopped into a small road and there not hidden anymore from the forest was the first glimpse of one of europe's highest cliffs, acantilados en la serra da capelada, although its still far, we were speechless of how beautiful it is! amidst the stormy skies and the dark and grey atlantic ocean, the vegetation in the cliffs glowed with green! pablo talked to me while the others were busy taking pictures, he said, that this place as he researched was the roots and ancestry of my mother. as he said that, normally i am already "shrieking" with excitement but i chose to remain quiet.
we continued driving again and far, we got higher and higher, pablo was driving so fast in a narrow road with deep ravines on the left side (im sure the girls are in the edge of their seats!) while us with señor manolo were lagging behind as señor manolo is a slow driver and kept turning his head towards me to translate what ben asked of him lol!
finally we catched up with pablo and the girls, they were already out in the car and exploring the area of the first part of the cliffs, it was devastatingly beautiful.
after the first part, we went back again in the car, it was so cold and windy, the wind was so strong that it blew my cap away from my head - i had to run as fast as i can to retreive it before it will be carried into the atlantic ocean!
we drove again, this time higher, but the cliffs were not to be seen and surprisingly there are so many windmills in that area that stretches from horizon to horizon as far as the eye can see! the propellers were turning so fast! the wind was so strong! a bit scary but fascinating at the same time!
as the group walked towards a small rundown cottage, i was fucking speechless.
more or less 700 meters high, the mountains just dropped into the ocean! strong waves hurled themselves from below, on the right, we can see the other small towns of cariño and ortigueira where the cliffs end and from the left - endless stretch of the cliffs and some were covered by clouds! and thats in high summer! storm clouds are brewing in the distance where the atlantic ocean continue to roar its mighty waves!
i was at loss for words with the beauty of the place, while the guys were busy talking to each other, i again separated from the group and absorbed every beautiful moment, spectacular views and inspiring thoughts for this is it, this is the moment i had been waiting and longing for, all my life. to search for my ancestry, for my roots - in the past i thought it would be impossible - a shoot for the moon, but now, its in my hands.
i felt, i had been here long long time ago. i am a big fan of new age music, which derived their roots from the celtic music and music of the north and this land, the land were the celts and druids made their home.
i was not born here, grew up here, nor even imagined being here. but to the stand and feel something that connects me from my past was exploding. to top it off, the stormy winds boreas, notos, euros and zephyros were playing with me. it set me free.
un lugar donde alguna vez estuve en mi pasado, en donde los cuatro vientos de la tierra envolvieron en círculos sus fríos brazos en mi frágil cuerpo; con ello, hallé el amor en soledad.
in that wild stretch of land
such a sad place to be
when the night comes heavy down
and the sands turn to sea
many saints have lost their love
many a pilgrim died unseen
in that wild stretch of land
in that fire to be free.
in that fire to be free.
a little story to share about the myths and legends of the acantilados en la serra da capelada.
the small town of san andres de teixido that lies just below garita de herbeira has a legend in his own right. a great legend, but a sad one. and i am going to share and translate it as much as i can.
the legend of san andres de teixido (with the help of pablo, we tried to translate the original spanish texts into english)
in cedeira lies the sanctuary of san andres de teixido.
one day, our lord jesus christ went and visited him, and asked him a question - "how come you are so sad?" and san andres replied "oh my lord! despite the fact that i also do miracles like santiago (san yago) nobody comes close to these places and my sanctuary is empty". then our lord jesus christ smiled and told him "there has to be less someone like santiago. i promise you, that everyone will go at least once in their lifetime to your sanctuary" then san andres replied "thank you my lord, but how will that be possible?" and the lord replied "if no one would come here as long as they are living, they will come here after death has taken them"
that is why nobody bothers the animals that around the paths of the sanctuary, because the legend says that they carry the souls of those who do not done their pilgrimage in life.
but that comes with the arrival of christianity. in antiquity, the area of san andres was sacred territory of the celtic druids. it is a magical place since the beginning of time.
Leyenda de San Andrés de Teixido (in original spanish text)
En Cedeira está el santuario de San Andrés de Teixido. San Andrés, que veía como a la tumba de San Yago iban grandes peregrinaciones mientras que a él nadie venía a visitarle, paseaba melancólico sus soledades. Un día se encontró con Nuestro Señor Jesucristo que venía a visitarle y éste le preguntó: "¿Cómo es que estás tan triste?" San Andrés le respondió: "¡Ay mi señor! A pesar de que yo también hago milagros como Santiago nadie se acerca por estos parajes y está mi santuario vacío".
Pero esto viene con la llegada del cristianismo. En la antiguedad, la zona de San Andres fue territorio sagrado de los druidas celtas. Es un sitio magico desde el principio de los tiempos.
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