Citadels, Loc and a sky full of stars

Two days in imperial Hue, the former capital of Viet Nam.

I was lucky enough to meet up with my Vietnamese friends I had met in Saigon.  We browsed the city on mopeds and then did a 25km ride to Vinh Tanh beach (where I was the only westerner!). On the way there we stopped at the city of tombs, an endless cemetery full of colourful buddhist, chinese and christian tombs where wealthy locals are buried. At the beach, we played with the waves and ate Banh Nam and Banh Bot loc. On the way back, surrounded by complete darkness, we stopped to gaze at the stars. Jupiter was at the zenith, followed by Saturn...

The next morning had an early start at 7:30 to avoid the heat while viewing the impressive citadel. We had delicious noodles at a food stall for breakfast followed by fresh sugar cane juice. We then made it up to a local hill to admire the Hue river, under the shade of pine trees. In the past, when boats were the main transport, girls would row down the river singing traditional songs to entertain themselves.

Once my friends returned to Saigon, I was left alone with my travel guide. After being shown around by locals for 2 days, I had no intention in opening it. I roamed the streets til I found the street kitchen we had eaten dinner the previous night. The cook there remembered me, smiled and gave me a plate of delicious noodles. I was given a second plate for free even though I insisted on paying. The two men sitting next to me, with their minimum english, were eager to converse and tell me about themselves and their families. They bought me 3 rounds of beer and refused any attempt I made to return the gesture. But the best part was when they recognised the lady in one of my guidebook's pictures of Dong Ba market - and this is a 1998 guide! The next morning I headed to Dong Ba for breakfast, pointing at my picture. Everyone knew her and when I reached the stall I was surrounded by her neighbours who were thrilled to see Mrs Thin in my book!

I feel foolish for having spent most of my time eating at restaurants. For the rest of my stay in Vietnam I will be eating at street kitchens. It doesn't get better than Banh Canh Ca loc with Che for dessert. The food is delicious, cheap and you get to meet some wonderful people.

I left Hue feeling really touched by the kindness of the Vietnamese.