I have a dream

Cusco Travel Blog

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Last night was bitterly cold. Most nights here are. Normally I´m not out at two in the morning in the middle of fucking nowhere in order to appreciate this fact all the more.

Why was I in the middle of nowhere, you ask?

The last four days were spent doing things I never thought would be possible.  Day one saw me speeding down a steep mountain road for an hour, a steep incline on one side, and a vertical drop on the other, buses and cars speeding past me recklessly, using their horn instead of their damn breaks. After an hour of this, we hit gravel. Seriously gravel at that. Roads in Peru are a little like the backest back roads in NZ, and I spent a good three hours having every bit of fat on my body jiggled into oblivion. The last of this hour was spent at breakneck speed with the driver of the van riding my tail to hurry me up.  They don´t ask nicely around here.

The second day is a grueling hike through some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen. Played with a monkey, huffed and puffed up hills and eventually reached a hot springs to soak my tortured bones and blistered feet.

That night we all decided to invade the one local discotheque and all proceeded to bond over alcohol and bad music, which we all danced enthusiastically to. Many amusing and scandelous hookups happened, which gave us all ammunition for the next day of hiking, which was equally as beautiful, but slightly less taxing. In the evening we reached Aguas Calientes and I crawled into bed early, suffering from blisters on my toes and a bout of seedy-ness, which is still haunting me at random intervals. I miss out on more sandel, but it matters not, for I get a solid nights sleep, which proved invaluable for the next day.


I felt seedy as anything. Every joint in my body ached, my feet had gone on strike and  I thought I was going to vomit everywhere. BUT ... it didn´t actually matter. Every since I was a little kid, flipping through our collection of natural geographics, I´ve been fascinated with that amazing and mysterious place. I was there. There is no amount of writing, no matter how poetic or flowery that can possibley do that place any justice at all.

There will be photos. Eventually.

Then it was back to wait for our train, that due to a fuckup at the agency, was to be the nine o´clock rather than the six. The agency also couldn´t gaurantee  a van for us when we got there. AT ELEVEN. pah. Our group was eventually  divided into the rapidly dwindling number of taxis, and a lovely girl called Helen and I piled into one together.


Which proceeded to break down halfway between the train and Cusco. Which is a two hour trip. The local passengers procure  a taxi, and refuse us room and speed off, leaving us in the middle of nowhere with three strange men. FOR AN HOUR. Eventually someone from Helen´s hotel comes to pick us up, but that hour was so scary. I had spent the evening feeling sick as a dog, and my nausea had only just cleared up. I was tired beyond belief and thoroughly fed up with the situation. When I finally get back to the hotel, the guide is there, pacing up and down, and the two girls are there as well, and suddenly I´m surrounded by so much warmth and relief  it´s unbelievable.

My advice?

Don´t trek with Puma treks. They can´t organise their way out of a paper bag and their treatment of their guides is disgusting.



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photo by: Vlindeke