Annapurna Base Camp Travel Blog

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Start of the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) Trek; Phedi

A trek into the middle of the Annapurna Himals, several trails start from Naya Pul (1070m) and Phedi (1128m), combine in Taglung (2180m), go all the way up to 4180m high Annapurna Basecamp, passing Machupuchure Basecamp (3686m).

Day 1 we started the trek with a steep climb at Phedi (1128m)- passing Dhampus (1737m), Pothana (1990m) and Tolka (1780m), to spend the first night in Landruk (1640m) - shocked by the immenseness of the himalayas on the horizon.

Day 2 a steep climb up the 3 times 700 steps to Chomrong (2170m), with the trail crossing both rivers (1st down to 1340m, 2nd down to 1450m).

view towards Sarangkot, from up the mountain from Phedi (right.:P)

Day 3 a long walk all the way up to Himalaya (2844m), through the rhodondendron and oakforest, spotting white monkeys and weasels. Starting to appreciate the heaters in the common room.

Day 4 through fresh snow in avalanchevalley (which starts close to Deurali (3140m)), past Machupuchure Basecamp (3686m), finding the way to Annapurna BaseCamp (4180m) in a gentle snowstorm.

Day 5 getting up for sunrise in fresh new snow to find the view blocked by thick clouds - which thankfully cleared up during breakfast, uncovering stunning views and the realisation that we're in the belly of the beast - the majestic cradle of (clockwise) the Hiun Chuli (6434m), Annapurna South (7219m), Baraha Shikhar/Fang (7647m), Annapurna I (8091m), Khangsar Kang/Roc Noir (7485m), Singu Chuli/Fluted Peak (6501m),Tharpu Chuli/Tent Peak (5695m), Tare Kang/Glacier Dome (7069m), Gangapurna (7455m), Annapurna III (7555m), Gandharwa Chuli (6248m), and the beautiful Machhapuchhre (6980m) (& Mardi Himal (5553m)).

view on trail between Phedi and Lantang
Sliding and running down to MBC, onwards quickly through the avalanche valley, lunch in Himalaya, down to Bamboo (2340m) - where i left the Welsh group at 4pm to continue to Sinuwa (2360m).. though i ended up passing the village, running down to the river (1860m), and walking up the horrible steps of Chomrong (2170m) to sunset. one look over my shoulder made it all worthwhile; the clearest view on Machupucchre i ever had. (see pic)

Day 6 a short beautiful day; past Taglung, where i was stunned by the beauty of an immense bird. Standing there, watching it for a while - the volcher comes flying right at me, pulling up 5m in front of me. gorgeous. down to the river again, followed by a wander along a sheeptrail to Motkyu, down again along the river Modi Khola towards Birethanti (1025m) and final destination Naya Pul (1070m).

gazing at this majestic mountain
Enjoying the perfectly coloured, sharp blue water rushing down through the green valleys on my way, perfectly abandoned with the sensation of freedom, self-reliance, and the feeling of being at ease at any place, at any moment place; nothing better than being alone with nature, being an extension of the earth.

All in all a totally recommendable trek for anyone who's in the neighbourhood. you don't have to be terribly fit, and the trip will take you about a week (most common 7/8 days) - there's guesthouses (with heaters and showers!), places to eat, places to get water (and a hot spring on the way close to Taglung). i was able to get a duvey in every guesthouse. if you're not sure about your condition you can even hire a porter or a guide so you'll only have to focus on walking (i guess that'd be around 600 NR per day).  eventhough it was my highest trek, it was definitely my most comfortable trek so far - it being the first without cookinggear or tent.

as the curtain of clouds shift and reveal shockingly the even bigger Annapurnas behind it that await us.. twice as big - we realise we're going to the belly of the beast, the Cradle of the Annapurnas
6 days was totally do-able, 7 days would be recommendable.

To enter the Annapurna region costs 2000 NR - unless you have a very good map and recommendations from checkpostavoiding travellers, i would suggest to get this permit or you might end up paying doubleprice at the checkpoints on the trails. They state this money goes to development and keeping the Annapurnas clean. I got checked 3 times - dhampus, chomrong and the non-avoidable post at Birethanti.

inside the Annapurnas the guesthouses get cheaper (i payed between 60 NR and 120 NR) - though you'll already notice a rise in water and food prices fairly quickly after starting your journey. Iodine or chlorine tablets will save you a lot of money.

do bring rain and wintergear alongside your tropical trekkingwear. sunglasses. bathing costume for the hot springs, a non-plastic bottle and mosquito repellent and ur all set :)




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Start of the Annapurna Base Camp (…
Start of the Annapurna Base Camp …
view towards Sarangkot, from up th…
view towards Sarangkot, from up t…
view on trail between Phedi and La…
view on trail between Phedi and L…
gazing at this majestic mountain
gazing at this majestic mountain
as the curtain of clouds shift and…
as the curtain of clouds shift an…
Annapurna Base Camp
photo by: Stevie_Wes