Largest Defensive Walls, Salt Pans, and Mussel Farms
Ston
Our first stop on the tour was the town of Ston which is a small town and municapllity in the Dubrovnik-Neretva county of Croatia, located just south of the isthmus of the Peljesac peninsula. Ston was a previous military fort of the Ragusan Republic whose defensive walls are incredible. They are medieval architecture, 890 meters long town wall and a 5km Great Wall outside of town. These walls extend to the Mali Ston ("Little Ston") which is a smaller town on the northern side of the isthmus and at the end of the Gulf of Mali Ston.
One of the first attractions we saw in the town was the saltworks which were protected by the over 3 mile long wall during the 12th to 19th centuries. These salt pans are a vital source of income still and were highly coveted by the Republic of Dubrovnik and the Ottoman Empire.
When we arrived in Ston, it was POURING rain and pretty chilly for the end of May. We opted to take a quick peek at the salt mines since it was pretty flooded to wander through there and find a bar where we could try Croatian beer. Priorities, I know! We passed this somewhat crazy lady who was trying to tell bad American jokes and opted to continue on down the way. It was a very small town and trying to find one of the few bars/cafes that took credit cards was proving impossible. We finally found one but he did not speak English very well and tried to figure out the conversion rate which was hilarious. Finally he just cut us a deal on 4 beers and a couple glasses to take home. This was truly a locals place and everyone sorta looked at us like we were crazy but oh well, I am pretty much used to that! :D
Mali Ston
We walked over to Mali Ston in order to have lunch and get a tour of the mussel farming that takes place in the local bay.
Anyways, it was pretty much all you can eat and lunch consisted of raw oysters, raw mussels, calamari, small fish, and other seafood appetizers. Ended up sitting across from a number of California people which surprised me. The couple next to me were from Rocklin which is about a 30 minute drive across town from me. Amazing to travel around the world and wind up next to people from your own backyard! Lunch was very yummy and even better since a number of people at the table do not like raw seafood so my ex and I feasted on oysters and mussels. Raw mussels are not commonly found here in the States but I have had them once before and these were obviously much better and fresher.
Mali Ston was founded in 1335 as part of the Republic of Ragusa (Dubrovnik). Basically, it's purpose was a defensive town. The Fortress of Koruna rises above the village and is visible for some distance. The port of Mali Ston was completed in 1490 and has some similarities to the port of Dubrovnik with three arsenals, the round tower, and the fortified port gate with a Romanesque statue of St. Blaise.
Just southwest of Mali Ston is the larger village of Ston which is connected by the large fortress wall which circles the village, up to the hilltop and Pozvizd Fortress. Following the lines of the isthmus, the walls meet Mali Ston. Ston was walled around the same time as Mali Ston but evidence suggests settlement back as early as prehistoric times. Later it became a center for salt mining, still continuing today.
When in Ston, make sure to wander around the salt mines and you obviously cannot miss the fortress walls. The village is very small with basically one main walk street. Definitely bring cash as these are small little restaurants and bars, most do not take credit cards as we found out! People are friendly and most spoke fairly good English.
Then walk down across the street to Mali Ston and check out the oyster and mussel farms that decorate the bay. If you like seafood, this is said the be the best place in Croatia to get it. Rumor has it that Italy even imports seafood from this region in Croatia!
If you are not part of a tour headed to Ston and Mali Ston, Dubrovnik offers bus service between the two areas.
