visiting the tibetans in exile

McLeod Ganj Travel Blog

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 i've come to mcleodganj in the himalays & it is heaven compared to delhi .... on our way here we stopped for breakfast at this small cafe & there were a bunch of other travellers also taking breakfast & before they left the elderly man who seemed to be in charge came over & started a conversation with us ..... he turned out to be non other than sogyal rinpoche who is the author of the tibetan book of living & dying .... we took this to be a really good omen for our visit to dharamsala .
My room looks up at the himalayan peaks & each day there is more & more snow on the peakes so you know winter is coming but for now the days are warm & fresh with sometimes a torential monsoon downpour but then the sun comes out & it gets steamy & hot. Sometimes the air is clear & fresh & at times we are shrouded in mist & cloud, with fantastic views in every direction. Nights are cool but you only need a shawl or long sleeve tshirt. The tibetans are a happy & friendly lot with immense grace & beauty which is a real credit to them because the stories of atrocities commited to them by the chinese are horendous.
We've made friends with this one man who comes from the highest plateau in the world where people live known as the rooftop of the world. He spent his first 17 years living at 5000 meters, in winter in a cave with his family & animals, using his sheep as a pillow & in summer wandering with the animals & living in a tent. Then he made the trip to india over the mountains, some of his group almost dying from the cold & losing toes & fingers from the frost bite .... travelling at nite to avoid the chinese army & sleeping in daylight huddled together. He's been here now 9 years, the first 4 learning to read & write & now he's studying quantum physics! .... really inspiring.
I've been doing a bit of yoga in this studio with panoramic views of the mountains but most days we meditate or listen to osho discourses for 2 hours in the morning & evening & during the day go for walks & investigate the surrounding area which is really interesting. 
On our first day we went to see a doctor who is the private doctor of the dalai lama. I'm in the early stages of leuchemia & i've started my treatment .... taking pills, pills & more pills. Once a week i have this precious pill which has lots of strange things in it ( tourquise, gold & silver & lots more) .... the pills are hard as steel & need to be crushed up & i must say it's a bit like eating dirt or cow manure but i've heard such good reports about this treatment that i just get on with it. One friend i've heard about was close to death with leuchemia, had been all over the world trying different things, had sold his house, settled his family & was prepared to die when he heard about the tibetan doctors & now several years later is living a normal life so i'm full of hope.
Will be sorry to leave in a few days time but the journey unfolds ..... yesterday went for a blessing from karmapa ... such a beautiful being & the energy was so peacefull around him & the day before the dalai lama arrived back home & we lined up with all the tibetans & various westerners to greet him ... was also a really happy day .
jenyenh says:
Wow cant wait to read more of this!
Posted on: Mar 22, 2007
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McLeod Ganj
photo by: Stevie_Wes