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April is the month off the tulips in Holland. When you visit the Netherlands, you can see the tulips in different ways and colors.These pictures are taken in the east part off the Netherlands, where i lives.Every year you can make a tour, and it takes the whole day to see everything. It\'s a ride over 100 kilometers. lets start the tour now and enjoy the pictures! And of course, you\'re invited to come next year to see it with your own eyes.
I will give you some FAQ about the tulips and what should you know!
Ideally, you should plant six weeks or so prior to hard ground frosts in your area to allow ample time for fall root development.
Sometimes you will buy bulbs before you are ready to plant in order to get the best selection. While it\'s always best to plant your bulbs as soon after you receive them as possible, when you have to wait, be sure to store the bulbs in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
Even if planted late, bulbs will spring into action and try to start root growth. They are pre-programmed to grow and will do their best no matter how late you plant them.
Generally, the depth of the planting hole will depend upon the size of the bulb. As a general rule you should make the planting hole two to three times the height of the bulb. Be sure to plant the bulbs the right way: the root system down and the pointed part up.
You can leave the spring-bloomers in the ground, because they are winter âï¿½ï¿½hardyâï¿½ï¿½.
Tulips are sun as well as shade lovers. But when planting your tulips this fall, don\'t be fooled by the patterns of sun and shade in the fall garden! Remember that come spring, when tulips bloom, all the deciduous, non-evergreen trees in your yard will be beautifully leafless. There\'s a lot of sun in a spring garden!
Groups of bulbs make a much nicer show than individual \'soldiers marching single file.
Once upon a time, bone meal was considered an excellent bulb fertilizer, but times have changed! Most bone meal today has been so thoroughly processed that much of the essential nutrients have been literally boiled out. Spring-flowering bulbs actually need no fertilizer for their first season of blooming.
One other note about bone meal. Dogs and other critters can sniff it out and be tempted to dig!
Mulch is not required but it is often beneficial. Three inches is plenty. Wait until the ground cools down. Contrary to popular notions, mulching over bulbs is meant to retain soil moisture and keep the ground temperatures cool and stable, not to serve as a \'warm winter blanket\' (except in the very coldest climates). Mulch just before the ground freezes. Applying mulch too early in the season, when the ground is still soft and warm, can invite infestations by field mice and other critters that like to burrow in to establish winter quarters (and no doubt dig up tasty tulip treats!)
Spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips and daffodils must be planted in the fall or early winter to bloom in spring because they require a long period of cool temperatures to spark the biochemical process that causes them to flower.
Growers in the Netherlands plant their bulbs in November. They can do this because winters in the Netherlands never really start until mid-December. In regions where the winter starts earlier, it would be advisable to plant tulips in October.
No! If they are still firm and plump, plant them now. Bulbs are living plants, not seeds they cannot wait, they will dry out. Either chill them in the refrigerator for use indoors as forced bulbs or somehow get them into the ground outside.
Nothing. Tulips and other spring-flowering bulbs are tough. They can usually take what Mother Nature dishes out. When the weather turns, don\'t dash outside to cover early-sprouting bulbs with extra \'weather protection.\' A short freeze won\'t do lasting damage to young bulb shoots and buds, though it may \'burn\' already open blossoms. Many, such as snowdrops, crocuses, and early rock garden narcissi are supposed to come up in very early spring, even peeking through the snow.
1. You can remove the flowers bulb and all and discard them. This is done by most avid gardeners who are constantly improving their garden design and the look and feel of their garden. It also guarantees fresh bulbs (because they plant new bulbs every year) in their garden and they can be sure of fresh strong flowers.
2. You can also choose to let the bulbs stay in the ground and have them bloom again next year. In this case you must allow the bulb to charge up its energy for the winter and to bloom again next year. This means that the leaves must stay on until they die down.
No, itâï¿½ï¿½s not. Spring bloomers have their life cycle and fresh bulbs are available in the period of August âï¿½ï¿½ November. In case you find for example tulip bulbs for sale in spring you can be pretty sure these are old harvest and not fresh. Donâï¿½ï¿½t buy!
Fritillaria imperialis and the Allium species are the bulbs with the strongest odours.
Species tulips refers to those varieties which have not been bred or hybridized and remain essentially as they are found in nature. Botanical tulips are hybrids, but hybrids, which remain very close to the original species. Neither of these terms refers to \'wild\' tulips. All tulips sold by the Dutch, including the species and botanical tulips, are actually propagated and grown in Holland.
Tulipa tarda, circa 1590s.
Tulipa \'Keizerkroon\', c. 1750.
Tulipa clusiana, c. 1802. While the actual red-and-white-striped species tulip T. clusiana is no longer commercially available, its new \'identical cousin\' is! Red-and-light yellow-striped T. clusiana \'Cynthia\' (1959) this six-inch tall hybrid readily naturalizes to come back year after year.
Viridiflora Tulips, c. 1700 . Green tulips! 20th Century Viridifloras: \'Groenland\' (or âï¿½ï¿½Greenlandâï¿½ï¿½), pale pink with flames and blushes of rose and pale green; \'Spring Green\', creamy white with blush green; and âï¿½ï¿½Pimpernelâï¿½ï¿½, purplish-red with green featherings.
My tulips don\'t do well at all the second season of bloom.
This old-fashioned method is difficult, yields mediocre results and is generally a lot of bother. It is better to look for those tulips with a natural propensity for repeat performance. Botanical or species varieties and their hybridized strains are generally excellent garden performers and sometimes will even naturalize (multiply).
When the deer population in your area is high, you better not plant tulips. There are however enough other bulbs you can plant and enjoy. Think about:
Daffodils, Hyacinths, Muscari, Scilla, Fritillaria, Allium, Anemone, Chionodoxa, Colchicum, Crocus.
An option is to plant some tulips between deer proof varieties. The smell of the deer proof bulbs will very likely discourage deer to start digging.
Unfortunately, no bulbs have the capacity to really scare off mice or rats. There are a few precautionary measures that can be taken to keep these pests from eating your bulbs, however. First, plant the bulbs deeply enough and cover them properly with soil so that mice and/or rats are not attracted to the planting site. Secondly, cover the border where the bulbs have been planted with some finely meshed wire netting. Lay out this netting so that it more than covers the border and then insert the edges slightly into the soil.
Squirrels can be terrible pests! They won\'t bother daffodils and other narcissi bulbs (which taste terrible to them!), but they find tulips and crocus in particular to be worth the effort to sniff out and dig up.
Another remedy that some find successful is to actually feed the squirrels during the fall and winter. The theory is that the local squirrel population, when offered a handy plate of peanuts or other easy-to-get treats will leave your bulbs alone. At the White House, the gardeners put up six peanut-filled feeding boxes to satiate the furry denizens there -- and reduced squirrel damage on bulb beds by 95 percent!
A favourite Dutch remedy is to interplant Fritillaria imperialis. This tall dramatic plant gives off an odor that squirrels (and deer too, reportedly) find repellent.
Many gardeners claim success with commercial repellents, but these are often sticky and unpleasant to deal with, or wash away in the rain.
When tiny insects emerge from a bouquet composed of summer bulb flowers, this does no harm to the flowers but it\'s certainly not pleasant for you. These insects have emerged from eggs that were laid there earlier and will usually have disappeared within a couple of days. One way to deal with this problem is to spray the bouquet with a mixture of dishwashing detergent, water and a dash of methylated spirits; another way is to place the bouquet outside on your garden table until the insects have flown away.