Bushmen

Arusha Travel Blog

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Camps Bay from Table Mountain, Cape Town
No, not the Rangers or the Pioneers, but rather those folk that live in the African bush, hunting and gathering (and selling bracelets to tourists).

Tommer and I spent this morning with a group of bushman in Lake Eyasi (its a little south of the Serengeti). We arrived at around 7ish. We went hunting (out guides killed a bird and an adorably cute squirrel, which we roasted over a fire and ate), then we came back, practiced with a bow and arrow and watched some dancing. Then we left.

It was fantastic. We both had a great time and we both left wanting more. But.

Tribal visits always have of them a sense of artificiality.  At least in my experience (limited though it is) it's impossible not to feel like a spectator, a viewer behing the glass, a watcher of a fictionalised reality that can only ever be a poor simulacrum of The Way It Is. Moreover, I ind it almost impossible to resist the urge not to cement the glass in okace by snapping pictures, making asides and altogether behaving like I just flicked over the Discovery channel.

I suppose I wish I knew of a way to see those corners of existance that are remote from mine without being so trapped in mine "white" guilt and it's attendant phenomena, but it escapes me. For now,
sjgamble says:
NAV!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I finally take some time out of my precious friday night to read your blog and YOU ATE A CUTE FURRY MUNCHKIN????!!!! We have to talk, as soon as you have a phone again.
Posted on: Jun 20, 2008
mattschumpert says:
"white" guilt... nice touch :)
Posted on: Jun 14, 2008
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Spray in Mossel Bay
Tommer and I just got back from our latest safari trip - this time we saw the Ngorongoro crater and spent a morning with the Lake Eyasi bushman. Since I haven't blogged about the Maasai (Masai? Masaai?) Mara, I thought I'd combine.

Maasai first. We saw a lot of zebra, giraffe and assorted antelope, but that seems to be par for the course. In terms of the so-called Big Five, we got lions (awesome photos, I'll have them up soon), elephants, buffalo and rhinos (these were at Nakuru, not Maasai Mara). And before I move on to other parks and more general observations I have to say a few words about the Safari van. Now, the Maasai Mara is an altogether off-road experience, unlike in Tanzania you can drive wherever you wish (presumably this is horrible for the ecology, but.
Knysna Heads
..). Accordingly, you'd think a 4x4 would be essential. Apparantly not. A skilled driver with minibus can do things Colin McRae would have have trouble with: driving over ditches, through ditiches, in to ditches (and getting out again) and... well you get the idea.

Now, Ngorongoro was a somewhat different (and briefer) experience than the  Maasai Mara.  Lions again  (but no black rhinos, cheetahs or leopards) and the rest, but I think the highlight was the sense of stumbling across creation as you descend into the crater. Ngorongoro is about 18km in diameter. Which is very, very small. Espeially given the wildlife doesn't wander out that much. Accordingly, it's hard for the expereince not to feel a little surreal, as if you're driving around a repository of the infinite (ish) variety that Darwin has presented us with in Africa. That, plus the verdent green forests that cover the crater walls and encircle the bush at its heart, was enough burn a memory in.

General safari obervations next.
sjgamble says:
Ok, the lioness and cub picture kind of makes up for the squirrel thing :)
Posted on: Jun 20, 2008
Camps Bay from Table Mountain, Cap…
Camps Bay from Table Mountain, Ca…
Spray in Mossel Bay
Spray in Mossel Bay
Knysna Heads
Knysna Heads
Sunrise in the Drakensberg
Sunrise in the Drakensberg
The Amphitheater, Drakensberg
The Amphitheater, Drakensberg
Sani Falls(800+ meters), Drakensbe…
Sani Falls(800+ meters), Drakensb…
Buffalo, Kruger
Buffalo, Kruger
Giraffe, Kruger
Giraffe, Kruger
Wildebeast, Kruger
Wildebeast, Kruger
White Rhino, Kruger
White Rhino, Kruger
Tofo Beach, Mozambique
Tofo Beach, Mozambique
Sunset over Tofo
Sunset over Tofo
Maasai, Kenya
Maasai, Kenya
Zebra, Maasai Mara
Zebra, Maasai Mara
Tommer and a zebra, Maasai Mara
Tommer and a zebra, Maasai Mara
Me (in a hat), Maasai Mara
Me (in a hat), Maasai Mara
Sunset, Maasai Mara
Sunset, Maasai Mara
Artistic photo of fire, Maasai Mara
Artistic photo of fire, Maasai Mara
Safari van cum minibus (capable of…
Safari van cum minibus (capable o…
Lioness and cub, Maasai Mara
Lioness and cub, Maasai Mara
Lion,Maasai Mara
Lion,Maasai Mara
Lioness, Maasai Mara
Lioness, Maasai Mara
White Rhino, Lake Nakuru
White Rhino, Lake Nakuru
Tommer and the lake, Lake Nakuru
Tommer and the lake, Lake Nakuru
Tommer exhibits his secret desires…
Tommer exhibits his secret desire…
Dhow, Lamu
Dhow, Lamu
Lamu
Lamu
Coral wall, Lamu
Coral wall, Lamu
Mini golf in Lushoto, Tommer shows…
Mini golf in Lushoto, Tommer show…
Tommer in rainforest, Lushoto
Tommer in rainforest, Lushoto
Tommer and chameleon (apologies fo…
Tommer and chameleon (apologies f…
Our bus gets stuck in dish, Lushoto
Our bus gets stuck in dish, Lushoto
Scary Tommer, Ngorongoro
Scary Tommer, Ngorongoro
Scary Tommer eyes, Ngorongoro
Scary Tommer eyes, Ngorongoro
I contemplate the multiverse, Lake…
I contemplate the multiverse, Lak…
Tommer at a jaunty angle, Lake Eya…
Tommer at a jaunty angle, Lake Ey…
Tommer shoots...
Tommer shoots...
...and fails to score!
...and fails to score!
African child in emotionally movin…
African child in emotionally movi…
Arusha
photo by: Mikie