posted by:

Omaha Beach, Normandy France

NORMANDY Travel Blog › entry 1 of 1 › view all entries

A mere blog can never do this sacred place justice. A visit gives only a remote glimpse at the hell these guys rushed into.

Omaha Beach, Normandy France

German bunker facing east along the coast line with excellant fields of fire on Omaha.

    

  It's had to have happened to you.  You're running late and you find yourself stuck in traffic behind some old dude going 25 miles an hour in the wrong lane with the wrong blinker on.  Most likely you're in Florida.  And then there's always the white-haired guy that's dragging his leg down an aisle in front of you thus delaying you're acquisition of the latest organic whatever or a coffee that requires a rudimentary understanding of Latin just to order.  Before you get too annoyed, just consider for a moment: maybe this dude wasn't always quite so slow.

Hedgerows
    

     It's the 6th of June, 1944 and that guy you and I will eventually have the luxury of being annoyed with is standing in a landing craft.  He's sea-sick and scared shitless and the guy behind him just puked up a half-digested can of K-rations on the back of his legs, both of which are shaking almost beyond control.  He checks his M1 Garand for the thirty-second time...loaded, charged, safety on. He re-wraps the plastic around it to keep it dry.  From behind, someone yells "One minute!"

     His Squad Leader is yelling something about intervals and rally points.

The ultimate sacrifice.
..probably things that are really important but our man could care less.  He just wants out of this damn boat.  Whatever comes next can't possibly be as bad as the fear and anticipation he's experiencing now.  He's never been so wrong. 

     He feels the boat strike and grind on something and he loses his balance, then falls to one knee but this saves his life for the minute the ramp falls the enemy MG-42 rounds go high, just over his head.

      The guy behind him drops like a rag-doll, as do several in front of him.

The number, 9,387 plus over 1500 missing says it all
  They never even get out of the boat alive. He stays low, crawling, and as the sound of bullets clink against the hull he struggles over the wounded and dead, rolls into the water, and goes under.  When he comes up, neck-deep in bloody surf, there is a flash off to his left and he hears screams...haunting screams he'll never forget.  He can smell burning petroleum and hears the hiss of incoming rounds.  He knows he should be doing something significant but his focus is on one thing and one thing only: find some fucking cover

     Huddled behind an X-shaped steel barrier he scans the beach ahead.  Dozens lay crumpled in the sand at the waters edge, their limbs floating awkwardly to and fro in blood-stained sea foam.  He moves with the crowd, hears a slap, and the man to his left drops.

Point du Hoc
  An overwhelming sense of guilt at his initial thoughts... Thank God it wasn't me, washes over him.  Stepping over a wounded man, he never even looks down, not even when the man reaches for him and pleads desperately for help.  This single act of ignoring a fallen man, so fleeting, will haunt his nights for the rest of his life. 

     Somehow, and the memory of how it came pass be will always escape him, he makes it across the beach and to the sea wall; a three foot mound of sand that is the high-water mark of the English Channel in France.  He collapses into a fetal position and screams.  Like in a dream, there is no sound.   Then he pisses himself.

      A round from a German 88 explodes in the dunes beyond the seawall, showering him with sand.

American Cemetary
  The man next to him chances a look over the edge and takes a round through the left eye and in that instant a dark realization sweeps over him: I will die today. It's not a matter of if, just when... and how.  Oddly, this calms him.  The initial fear he felt for his own safety evaporates into simple acceptance.  As the rest of the first wave gather along the sea wall, he throws off the mantel of fear and dons a cloak of anger:  Nobody is where they are supposed to be, He thinks....my leaders are idiots, the navy was supposed to take out these fucking shore batteries... He chances a look over his shoulder. The beach is covered with dead and wounded and nobody seems to be doing a thing.  He remembers the man that he stepped over earlier and hates himself to the very core.  Then he thinks; you know what….fuck it! 

     He's up now and running.

American Cemetary
.. ten meters...fifteen.  He grabs a wounded man by the back of his web-gear and drags him through the sand as bullets strike all around him.  He deposits the man at the sea wall and goes after another, and then another.  The fifth one he rescues can't be dragged and with a strength borne of rage and frustration he hoists the guy to onto his back and carries him then collapses, panting, next to a medic.

     Somebody yells for a Bangalore torpedo, a long pipe-like munition designed to breach barbed wire obstacles.  There is an explosion and a sergeant yells "defilade, right front…let's move!" The line surges through the gap and into the brushy dunes beyond the sea wall.  Ahead there is an enormous hill, heavily laden with concrete bunkers and pill-boxes that rain death from their guns.  Suddenly our man realizes that he has yet to fire his weapon.  This makes him mad and he fires three rounds up the hill, hitting nothing but feeling better; no longer helpless.  He runs, dodges and sprints in short dashes just like they told him to do in basic training so long ago and finds himself separated from the main body with two others at his side.  This is when he sees his first Germans.  Through the slit-like opening in a concrete bunker, they are firing an MG-42 with great effect down the line; tearing guys up... tearing up his friends.  Without a second thought, he waits until the line of fire angles away from him, yells "covering fire!" to the two men, and surges forward.  He doesn't feel brave.  He feels only rage.  All thoughts of patriotism and noble causes and of liberating an oppressed Europe are long-banished from his mind.  All he cares about are the men to his left and right- of killing these bastards so they can no longer hurt his buddies. 

     His lungs are about to explode as he gains the bunker.  Back to the concrete, the gun slit open to his left, he prays and curses in the same breath.  He hears muffled commands from within, shouted in a language he doesn't understand, and the gun opens up again but now he has pulled the pin on his grenade and lets the spoon fly.  He counts; One thousand, two thousand, three thousand...then tosses the grenade into the slit.  There are panicked shouts in German, an explosion, and the gun falls silent.  He makes his way to the back of the bunker where three more Germans appear from the rear entrance. He drops them all with his M1 rifle, emptying the clip, and then reloads.  There are voices now, and scattered moans from within the bunker.  He doesn't understand German but the tone is clearly that of pain and surrender.  Well, maybe. Who's to know? Without a tinge of guilt he throws in another grenade, then another.  He wishes like hell that he had a flame thrower.  When the dust settles he enters the bunker with his weapon raised to his shoulder, knife-like eyes gazing down the front sight post.   There is only one German still alive.  The enemy is wounded, crumpled in the corner with his hands up...old enough to be his grandfather.  The German strikes our man as scared, hurt, and somewhat pathetic.  He places the muzzle of hi M1 on the German's chest and fires.   On the floor next to the German is a charred pack of cigarettes and a lighter emblazoned with a swastika.  He picks up the pack, draws one out, lights it, and inhales deeply.  The men he has just killed lay crumpled around him in pools of their own blood; eyes and mouths open wide in frozen terror. He surveys the scene through eyes that rest below furrowed brows.  A sudden guilt tugs at him, unbidden, and he stares at the lit end of the cigarette... my mother would just shit if she knew I was smoking.   

     His two companions appear as dark silhouettes in the doorway and stare into the bunker with wide eyes. He knows both of the men from the long months of training in England.  There is something different about the way they're looking at him now.  It's as if they are seeing him for the first time.  Light from the gun slit bathes our man in an ethereal glow.  "You're hit" One of them says. 

     He looks down and sees his left leg soaked in blood.  Only then does the pain register and he hobbles out of the bunker and into the light where a sudden weariness washes over him.  Gazing up the hill, he sees American soldiers surging over the top. The cacophony of weapons fire has eased to sporadic reports.  They've taken the beach.  His bad leg buckles and he falls against the bunker, then sits.  As his vision begins to dim, he casts his gaze out to sea where ships stretch ominously under lead-gray skies as far as the distant horizon.  We're gonna win this fight, he thinks, and then he smiles awkwardly and passes out.  One soldier goes to work on his leg and the other yells frantically for a medic.   

     Tomorrow will be his birthday.  He'll be nineteen years old. 

     Eventually, he will recover from his wounds and fight again, spending the next year of his life on constant edge, experiencing the unimaginable and living through the un-livable.  He's there to do a job and he does it.  He'll be awarded the Silver Star and the Purple Heart but he's not a hero.  He would gladly trade those little tags of cloth and tinsel just to hear the friends he lost laugh one more time.  He's a kid from Iowa that grew up too fast in a war he didn't start and wouldn't fully understand until years later. 

     Now, years later as he stands before us in line or delays us in traffic, the wounds and years have caught up with him and he's frustrated at how slow he is and how fast and impatient the world has become.  Cancer is slowly accomplishing what the Germans failed to do on the beaches of Normandy over 64 years ago.  In less than a year, his grandchildren will find his medals and citations while going through his things for the estate sale....they'll say, "Oh my God, I never knew" and then they'll play his old Glenn Miller records and cry and laugh and remember.  And be profoundly thankful. 

 

          A few paragraphs can not do justice to what it feels like to stand on Omaha Beach or among the graves of the American cemetery that overlooks it.  Forgive me for even trying.  I've seen a lot of combat, the heaviest of which was in the Battle of Mogadishu in 1993, and I have never been the same.  There are radio calls and brazen visuals that are etched in my soul as if on stone.  Even so, my experiences seem like mere skirmishes in comparison to what these guys must have faced and I have never been so humbled in all my life than to stand weeping in the midst of such sacrifice.   

bigmac993 says:
Only one who has been in this situation could write like this and understand it.. Great job! The pain of writing was worth it.
Posted on: Nov 27, 2009
bkretzer says:
A year later and still the best damn blog I have ever read! I, for one, hope to see this pop up every Nov 11th!
Posted on: Nov 11, 2009
huibdos says:
Been there, had the same feeling then!
Still have the same feeling now.
Posted on: Nov 11, 2009
Create a free TravBuddy account or login to leave comments, meet travelers, and share experiences with the TravBuddy travel community.
German bunker facing east along th…
German bunker facing east along
Hedgerows
Hedgerows
The ultimate sacrifice.
The ultimate sacrifice.
The number, 9,387 plus over 1500 m…
The number, 9,387 plus over 1500
Point du Hoc
Point du Hoc
American Cemetary
American Cemetary
American Cemetary
American Cemetary
NORMANDY Resources NORMANDY Reviews Hotels Near NORMANDY
City:
Guests:
Rooms:
Check-in:
Check-out:
Also compare :