Butterflies and Bocadillo

Sevilla Travel Blog

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Looking for Toro testicles (Edu and Carlo)

I´m ready to go!

I have been in Sevilla for 2 days and tomorrow morning at the crack of dawn I will head off from my host´s house for the Cathedral and then my first steps on the Camino de Santiago - Via de la Plata.

So the butterflies are imaginery and the bocadilla is not! It is a sandwich I had for breakfast with a Cafe con Leche. Things never change for a coffee lover. :)

My stay here has been another assault on the senses. The first afternoon, my host Eduardo and his friend Carlos took me for a walk to Triana district where we started with Tapas and chilled Vino tinto (red wine) at a tiny local farmers market. While shopping, the boys enquired about a special restaurant that cooks ´bulls testicles´No! we did not eat them.

Tea house in Cordoba - belly dancing
Carlos lives next door to the bull ring though. I climbed his roof to see the top of the stands but all was quiet on Saturday afternoon.

We then walked the restful cobbled streets to a small bar overflowing with locals chatting, drinking and taking tapas. On the end of the bar was a rack holding a huge leg of Andalusian jamon (ham). The area is famous for this as the black pigs roam free and eat the acorns therefore flavouring the ham delicately. Several more delicious legs were swinging from above the bar.

The next stop was another restaurant - this one well known for salmorejo. This is a type of thick soup made from tomatoes and bread. Some places specialise in it. OK OK  - enough food and wine already! Time for a short siesta.

We later headed out to attend a special concert where bands from Spain and OS were playing in an old convent.

The door to the Pilgrim Office at the Cathedral in Sevilla
It started at 10.30pm and we just made it after more tapas. Needless to say I got home at 4am. I can hear the gasps from those who know me well.

There were 3 stages and one of them was inside an old Church. Spain is very conservative and it was a controversial move by the promoters. There was strict security with all bags checked for alcohol but strangely enough all types of smoking was allowed! I could not get my head around that concept. The ´band´I saw there was a techno duo and they were singing over electronic music with old horror film clips playing on the walls. I really had a difficult time with this one!

Outside there were two more stages, one with hip-hop reggae and the other with local pop. My favourite band was Orishas from Cuba. Very HOT lead singer. See if you can google them. I drank a few Tinto de Verano (like red wine watered down with fizzy drink) - not much of a hangover.

Yesterday was a fun day in Cordoba, a 90 minute drive form Sevilla. We wandered the old town enjoying the beautiful ´Patios´(courtyards) that are planted in bright coloured flowers in pots every spring and attract a lot of local tourists. (Mum, you would have adored it!)

The Mezquita is a famous church that has had several incarnations starting as a Moorish mosque. The inside is still very Moorish and has now been Catholocised. The outside court is planted with gorgeous shady orange trees and many people were resting there. Sunday is a chilled out day in Spain.

After totally overdoing it for lunch we walked for another hour or 2 and then found an Arabic Salon de The (tea house) complete with belly dancer. The Arabic coffee was divine and small plates of figs, dried apricots and sweets accompanied it.

This morning I made the emotional trip to the Cathedral to obtain my Credential (Pilgrim Passport). Although I already had one, kindly sent by a friend in France, I was hoping to carry one from the place my adventure will begin - Sevilla. I found the gateway at the back of the Cathedral (Catedral in Spanish) and unobtrusive wooden doorway to the Pilgrim office. I di not wait for long when a bicycle pilgrim emerged from the office in tears and that was all I needed to set me off. When on a pilgrimage, it seems that your emotions are heightened - whether happy, sad or in bliss!

The priest spoke no English but was very versed in the procedure and took my details down before carefully placing a stamp of Sevilla Catedral in the first of the available squares. I instantly felt the energy of the Camino and also left the small dark office in tears but I was beaming a huge grin as I emerged.

So today I now have plenty of time to wander around town and tomorrow morning I will take my first steps from the main Cathedral door in front of the statue of Santiago. By then the butterflies may have subsided. I know more adventures await and I will be sure to keep this site updated as often as possible.

Besos (kisses) to all my people - I wish you could share this with me

jethrosan says:
i know orishas. they're awesome.
Posted on: Aug 07, 2008
c_angel says:
It's been 20 years since I've been in Sevilla but I can still see the cathedral. Sounds like a great time, wish I could still stay awake til 1am let alone 4am. The party animal comes out... happy trails. c
Posted on: Jun 03, 2008
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Looking for Toro testicles (Edu an…
Looking for Toro testicles (Edu a…
Tea house in Cordoba - belly danci…
Tea house in Cordoba - belly danc…
The door to the Pilgrim Office at …
The door to the Pilgrim Office at…
photo by: JP-NED