From Naples, we headed back north to Roma.
I don't know that I have much to say about Rome
. It's Rome. The sights are amazing, but it's a pretty regular, dirty city otherwise. We hit ALL the main sights, got into the Vatican Museum for FREE (Last Sunday of the month is free. We were getting really lucky with being in all the right spots at all the right times), had our gelato, and one really good Italian meal. Most days it was so hot in Rome that you couldn't bear to be out in the midday sun. So we would usually hit places in the morning, come back and shower at about 1.00, nap until 5.00, and then go hit the rest of the things at night. One sight we got to that I hadn't been to before was a church called San Clemente.
It's really close to the Colloseum, but it's still obscure enough that it's not really on the regular tourist route (I don't know why though, because it was fascinating). San Clemente is a mediaeval church, which is built over the remains of a 4th centry church, which in turn is built over the remains of an ancient Mithraic Temple. And you can go down through all the layers! Definitely creepy when you get way undeground to the Mithraic Temple bits...it's all these tiny stone passageways, and there's crude paintings of bulls on the walls, and you can always hear this eerie drippy river somewhere off in the distance. Loved It!
Probably the most interesting thing to talk about with Rome was our hostel. It was this 6-room place on a six-floor walk-up in a deteriorating building near Termini Station.
Enjoying breakfast like a true Italian.
The beds were these ancient creaky metal bunks that wobbled back and forth with the slightest touch, and when you laid on the mattress, it sunk so far down that you nearly suffocated the person in the bed below you. I swear to God, one night we just threw the mattresses off the beds and slept on the floor, it was so terrifying. The showers could never stay one temperature, and went back and forth between extremes of hot and cold the entire time, with never more than 4 continuous seconds of a decent temperature to bathe yourself under. And to top it all off, we were rooming with Canadians. That's right, Canucks. Use your imagination. haha. ;)