On to Uyuni - Back to civilisation?
We leave around 10 and walk partway up Volcan Thunupa for a view over the salt flats. Marco has got the key to an exhibition of pre-Incan mummies in a cave on the way. Then we go to Isla Incahuasi for lunch. During the wet season the salt plains become salt lakes, but for now we can drive to the island. The salt is up to 5 metres deep. The island is absolutely amazing, with huge cacti up to 1,500 years old. It is a sanctuary and you have to pay to go there. As I understand it, registered guides are the only people allowed to take tours there. After lunch Marco and I walk around the island, about 1 km.
We then go to Ojos de Salar (Eyes of the Salar) which is bubbling water, but the water is cold as it comes from only a short distance from the surface. Then on to Colchani, which is the only community allowed to farm the salt, and finally to Uyuni.
I have arranged to take Marco and Cecilio out for dinner at La Loco (as in locomotive) and we have a pleasant dinner together and finally open the bottle of red that Jaira from Fremen Tours sent me. The local manager of Fremen is in the restaurant and she rings and I finally speak to Jaira; we have sent each other many emails over the last few weeks. Jaira is the contact for Fremen Tours in La Paz. I ring Rachel to let her know that I have arrived safely in Uyuni. No internet at the hotel and no time to spend in an internet café. The lights go out in the restaurant and we spend most of the time by candlelight. We only have the main course and dinner for the three of us comes to 50BOB, AUD7.20.
Marco walks me back to the hotel. Temperature in the lobby is 3°, outside is estimated as -10°, allowing for the wind factor.
Tambo Aymara room is cold with one tiny heater, far too small for the room and the bed is hard. But there is electricity and I get to have a hot shower and the people are nice.
Hotel Tambo Aymara US$50 pn. (double room, single occupancy) http://www.tamboaymara.com. Telephone 591-2-693227
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