To be or not to be in Bosna

Sarajevo Travel Blog

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Spend the whole day on foot.

Dither about my plans, and by the time I decided to train it to Mostar at 7am, Kandilj have given my room away. Nay bother, they phone Pansion Bascarsija (my original choice) and I have a new room in no time. My new hosts turn out to be a highlight of the trip.


Pansion Kandilj provides unlimited broadband net access and buffet breakfast! Fruit salad, yoghurts, cereals, bread, omelettes, sausages, even Earl Grey tea! Lunch at Željo: famous for their Ćevapčići sausages and wow what a difference to last night. The pitta bread is lighter and tastier too. They sell practically nothing but their specialty, not even Bosnian coffee, charging 6KM/€3 for the 10. Dinner at To Be or Not to Be: a homey little place that has more space upstairs but the two ground floor tables overlook the chef in her corner kitchen and a characterful clutter of Bosnian cooking utensils, photos, fruit and peppers. A refreshing Sarajevsko and a piping hot plate of squid in black rice sprinkled with herbs and spice for €16. Delicious.


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photo by: herman_munster