Welcome to Sarajevo

travel
2hour direct flight on British Airways using Airmiles (saving c£200) as there are no budget airlines to this destination.
A benefit of this is that there are almost no tourists! Drivers at the airport are now demanding €15 instead of the €10 listed in the Bradt '07 guidebook and the first driver unceremoniously dumps me after a few minutes circling when he finds another fare (to a further destination)! "My friend take you for €10" - shunting me towards another driver who is, of course, oblivious.  

room
Despite requesting a ride to Pansion Baščaršija, driver no.2 ("I am driver!") takes me to a local home where I can bunk dormitory style for €15 (no thanks, the hostel is half that), then insists I take a look at Pansion Kandilj.
Fortunately, Kandilj turns out to be a fantastic find! Sparkling porcelain, super shower and sanitized toilet, plus a comfortable single bed for €30 including breakfast. Located in Bistrik just a few minutes across the river from the old town.

food
First port of call is Morica Han - a former caravanserai, whose inner courtyard has been converted into a series of beautiful carpet sellers, cafes, and a restaurant. Here I get my first taste of Bosnian cuisine - the famous Ćevapčići: 10 tasty little sausages served with half a loaf of bread, onions, and a mixed salad. Han does not sell alcohol. 

explore
It is already late afternoon and snowing heavily (so much for Spring). Wandering through the old town is amazing: Sarajevo is a delight to behold. The close proximity of the Jewish Synagogue, Catholic Cathedral, Orthodox Church, and countless Mosques with their lantern-like minarets piercing the flake filled night sky gives rise to quite a spiritual ambience and puts me in mind of tales from the nativity. A warming eternal flame burns for the war dead on a street corner, and freshly restored buildings stand proudly alongside their brethren still wearing the scars of shelling. Welcome to Sarajevo.