The Joy of Surfing
It is Tuesday morning and I am sitting on the cliffs of Cobden Tip watching Andrew surf. Andrew says it is the best surfing he has ever done. He has to climb down rocks and time it just right to get out to the breaks before he gets smashed against the rocks. Scary for me thrilling for him. I see 4 dolphins swimming by. Good omen. Hopefully no sharks are around
Surfing is kind of like life. To get the most out of it you have to take risks. You have to work hard to get out to where the “white water” is. Most of the time you have to pedal like crazy only to miss the break. You have to wait patiently to catch the right wave. But then when you catch it and you ride the curl, for a brief few seconds you are on the top of the world as you cut across the shimmering emerald spray. Andrew says it is one of the greatest joyful experiences he has ever had...but he only could experience it by swimming out to where the big waves were...me I just stayed on the beach and lived vicariously in his joy.
