East Side Gallery
October 12, 2004
So to my last day in Berlin. Fortunately my flight was not until late afternoon, which meant that after I had spent some time packing there was still time for an expedition before lunch. As it was a fine day there was really only one option: the East Side Gallery in Muhlenstrasse, which both Jenny and I had been determined to see. This is a long stretch of the former Wall which since reunification has been given over to art, and more than a hundred images have been painted on the concrete panels. In 2000 a major restoration and repainting was undertaken as many of the works had deteriorated and been defaced by graffiti: unhappily but unsurprisingly the graffiti has reappeared.
Some images are political, such as that of Honecker embracing Brezhnev, which Jessica has had printed onto a mug; some are humorous, as in the depiction of the Japanese sector, with Mount Fuji in the distance; some just record, as in the image of the Wall skirting the Brandenburg Gate; and some combine politics with humour, as in the famous image of a Trabant (the ubiquitous one-size-fits-all East German motor-car) apparently bursting throught Wall itself (I can't think why I didn't take a picture of this one). The section of the Wall that constitutes the Gallery follows the River Spree: it runs for about a quarter of a mile, and gives a fascinating insight into how Berliners regarded their own history and situation once freed from communist rule; we probably spent a good hour there, and it would certainly be one of my must-see recommendations for any visitor to Berlin.
Then it was time for a quick lunch, which I don't remember at all, after which I said goodbye to Jenny at Warschauer Strasse station - she had an afternoon meeting, and unaccountably trusted me to find my own way to Schonefeld airport. I left Berlin, and Germany, with many good memories - particularly of the food - and sincerely wanting to return. But not a single green-haired goth girl did I see!
If only the German language was easier to learn ...
Some images are political, such as that of Honecker embracing Brezhnev, which Jessica has had printed onto a mug; some are humorous, as in the depiction of the Japanese sector, with Mount Fuji in the distance; some just record, as in the image of the Wall skirting the Brandenburg Gate; and some combine politics with humour, as in the famous image of a Trabant (the ubiquitous one-size-fits-all East German motor-car) apparently bursting throught Wall itself (I can't think why I didn't take a picture of this one). The section of the Wall that constitutes the Gallery follows the River Spree: it runs for about a quarter of a mile, and gives a fascinating insight into how Berliners regarded their own history and situation once freed from communist rule; we probably spent a good hour there, and it would certainly be one of my must-see recommendations for any visitor to Berlin.
Then it was time for a quick lunch, which I don't remember at all, after which I said goodbye to Jenny at Warschauer Strasse station - she had an afternoon meeting, and unaccountably trusted me to find my own way to Schonefeld airport. I left Berlin, and Germany, with many good memories - particularly of the food - and sincerely wanting to return. But not a single green-haired goth girl did I see!
If only the German language was easier to learn ...
This is a long section of the former Berlin Wall that, soon after reunification, attracted artists who used the concrete panels to offer their own interpretations of Berlin's history and current situation. While most of the rest of the Wall has been destroyed, the East Side Gallery (as it came to be called) has remained, and there is now a charitable trust dedicated to its preservation.
There are over one hundred images, and being exposed to the elements and to vandals they fell into disrepair. Therefore in 2000 an extensive programme of repainting and restoration was undertaken, in many cases by the original artists. Unfortunately, although predictably, the graffiti has returned. Nevertheless, in my opinion the Gallery remains essential viewing for any visitor to Berlin, and you should allow at least an hour as the paintings engender many trains of thought.
The Gallery is all along one side of Muhlenstrasse, and the viewing technique is simply to walk along the other side with your head turned through ninety degrees - so you need a fine day! And it would be a good plan to avoid times when there is a lot of traffic, as cars and lorries obscure the view.











