Day 22: Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur - Tsetserleg

Tsetserleg Travel Blog

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the highway to Tsetserleg

The next morning I was feeling even worse than before. I had barely slept and was feeling so nauseous, I could barely sit up straight. We had about half a day's travel ahead on bumpy roads, so the timing couldn't be worse. Had I been sick a day earlier, at least I would've had the day at White Lake to rest.

The road was hell. At every bump or ditch I had to resist the urge to vomit and I was glad with the frequent stops we made, so that at least I could lie in the back of the Uaz, while the others went on little sightseeing trips.
About midway we encountered another UB Guesthouse Uaz travelling in the opposite direction. Naturally we stopped to say hi, and to all our surprise it contained Bertrand and Nathalie, the German couple we traveled the Gobi with.

Tsetserleg suburb
They were doing the same trip the other way around (with a longer return leg, which is why we couldn't have joined them on a trip) and were staying at White Lake tonight, to celebrate Bertram's birthday. They had hoped to meet us there, but unfortunately since they had left 2 days later than us, we only met them here in the middle of nowhere on the road. Not that I was in any mood of celebrating birthdays, mind.

A few hours later we arrived in the town of Tsetserleg. Of all the Aimag capitals in Mongolia this is the only one that seems to have some sort of charm. Not that I cared of course, I just wanted this day to be over with.
The others wanted to stop for lunch in the city, in a restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet, and it took great pains for me to convince Baatar to drop of the others at this restaurant, then bring me to the ger camp where we would spend the night, and then go back and pick the others up.

feeling so much better after getting a Japanese fever pad stuck to my forehead

I spent the rest of the day curled up in a way too short, way too hard and extremely uncomfortable bed, wearing thermal underwear, in my sleeping back, under two blankets and still feeling cold, all the while sipping rehydration fluids and rushing to the outhouse every ten minutes or so. An outhouse which, I might add, was back to the hole-in-the-ground variety. With nothing but a rackety shack to shield me from the wind. And I can tell you, severe diarrhoea, a hole in the ground and strong wind is definitely not the best of combinations...
In all my travelling days this was probably the worst ever. The trip to Tsetseleg just seemed endless, and once we reached our accommodation it turned out to be the worst we'd had in all of Mongolia. Even being rushed to a hospital in Australia after nearly dying of dehydration did not feel anywhere near as bad as this.

Towards the evening the rushes to outhouse became less and less frequent and my fever dropped somewhat (thanks to some kind of Japanese fever pad Anita pasted to my forehead). I even managed to eat some solid food, in the form of plain rice, with a little bit of ketchup added for flavour - not daring to go anywhere near mutton of course.

nobaddays says:
No smile here for you....but I call my medical insurance travel advisory who always hook me me up with mega-monster miracle pills just for this situation.
Posted on: May 10, 2009
vodkaphix says:
No, This was your Worst day! what a shame!
Posted on: Apr 21, 2009
boxinbcn says:
Terrible... looks like by the end of the entry you were starting to feel better. I have to say, it makes for good reading!!
Posted on: Apr 07, 2009
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the highway to Tsetserleg
the highway to Tsetserleg
Tsetserleg suburb
Tsetserleg suburb
feeling so much better after getti…
feeling so much better after gett…
Tsetserleg
photo by: Biedjee