Day 21: Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur
Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur Travel Blog› entry 23 of 34 › view all entries
We started the day with a horse riding trip along the volcanic Eastern shore of the lake. It was fun to see our hosts go out into the hills to 'catch' our horses. Even though the horses here are domesticated, they are a lot more wild than their European couterparts, and roam the shores of the lake freely for most of their time. So after our sizes and weight had been judged two guys set off to catch four horses for us.
And it should come as no surprise that these horses were barely trained. They accepted someone on their backs, but that was pretty much it. The horse I got was a nasty piece of work, which refused to listen to anything I tried to tell it to do, and constantly tried to throw me of.
And it is not that I have much horseriding experience or anything.
We made several stops along the way, looking at lava tubes which had created caverns, and even descended into some of them.
The rest of the day was mostly spent relaxing outside in the sun, sipping beers, reading, listening to music and playing with our guard dog. That dog was so cute. When we were sitting and having a chat together he felt deprived of attention, so he actually ran off with one of Robbel's shoes to draw our attention.
After yesterday's incident all of us did our best to avoid Mr Number 4 as much as possible. After three days of no shower and an overconsumption of alcohol his smell was almost worse than his laughter. I did my best to enjoy my day's rest as much as possible, especially after the poor night's sleep I'd had, but his presence did cast a shadow over the entire day.
And then at night I got sick. I woke up in the middle of the night because our guard dog kept on barking. Cute as the animal was, at that moment I hated him! I walked outside to see him sitting next to our ger, barking at horse riders in the distance. I did agree with him that it was a bit odd of them to be riding horse 4 o'clock in a pitch dark night, but even so, no reason to wake everybody up.
After that I couldn't sleep anymore. I started feeling nauseous and an hour later I found myself sweating in my sleeping bad, the ger seemed to be spinning and I had a strong urge to vomit.
Went outside again, but that vomit never came. A bout of diarrhoea did though, so I spent much of the rest of the night in the outhouse. It seemed the strange food, lack of vegetables had taken its toll. And I was worried about the remoteness of the place though. I have once been hospitalised with severe dehydration after a food poisoning, and I was very much aware of that the nearest hostpital was at least 6 hours driving away. So to prevent dehydration I forced myself to drink water all the time, even if this meant I had to rush back to the outhouse again straight after every sip I took.
Even so, despite the state I was in, I was taken aback by the beauty of the surroundings in the moonlight. If you have to be sick and spend a night on a toilet seat, there are definitely worse places to do than at the White Lake.