Day 21: Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur

Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur Travel Blog

 › entry 23 of 34 › view all entries
volcanic surroundings of Tsagaan Nuur

We started the day with a horse riding trip along the volcanic Eastern shore of the lake. It was fun to see our hosts go out into the hills to 'catch' our horses. Even though the horses here are domesticated, they are a lot more wild than their European couterparts, and roam the shores of the lake freely for most of their time. So after our sizes and weight had been judged two guys set off to catch four horses for us.

And it should come as no surprise that these horses were barely trained. They accepted someone on their backs, but that was pretty much it. The horse I got was a nasty piece of work, which refused to listen to anything I tried to tell it to do, and constantly tried to throw me of.
And it is not that I have much horseriding experience or anything.

Horseback riding at Tsagaan Nuur
I know what to do to make it walk and stop and steer, but that is about it. Robbel on the other hand has ridden horses for most of her life, so she gladly swapped with me after the first stop. She thought her horse was boring, so she was happy to get something with a bit more 'bite' (the latter quite literally, as my horse kept biting the others).

We made several stops along the way, looking at lava tubes which had created caverns, and even descended into some of them.

The rest of the day was mostly spent relaxing outside in the sun, sipping beers, reading, listening to music and playing with our guard dog. That dog was so cute. When we were sitting and having a chat together he felt deprived of attention, so he actually ran off with one of Robbel's shoes to draw our attention.

Doggie and Robbel fighting over a shoe

After yesterday's incident all of us did our best to avoid Mr Number 4 as much as possible. After three days of no shower and an overconsumption of alcohol his smell was almost worse than his laughter. I did my best to enjoy my day's rest as much as possible, especially after the poor night's sleep I'd had, but his presence did cast a shadow over the entire day.

And then at night I got sick. I woke up in the middle of the night because our guard dog kept on barking. Cute as the animal was, at that moment I hated him! I walked outside to see him sitting next to our ger, barking at horse riders in the distance. I did agree with him that it was a bit odd of them to be riding horse 4 o'clock in a pitch dark night, but even so, no reason to wake everybody up.

Tsagaan Nuur

After that I couldn't sleep anymore. I started feeling nauseous and an hour later I found myself sweating in my sleeping bad, the ger seemed to be spinning and I had a strong urge to vomit.
Went outside again, but that vomit never came. A bout of diarrhoea did though, so I spent much of the rest of the night in the outhouse. It seemed the strange food, lack of vegetables had taken its toll. And I was worried about the remoteness of the place though. I have once been hospitalised with severe dehydration after a food poisoning, and I was very much aware of that the nearest hostpital was at least 6 hours driving away. So to prevent dehydration I forced myself to drink water all the time, even if this meant I had to rush back to the outhouse again straight after every sip I took.

Even so, despite the state I was in, I was taken aback by the beauty of the surroundings in the moonlight. If you have to be sick and spend a night on a toilet seat, there are definitely worse places to do than at the White Lake.

vodkaphix says:
This sounds like your worst day? How awful!
Posted on: Apr 21, 2009
edsander says:
And then you ask me how *I* get sick all the time? ;-)
Posted on: Sep 07, 2008
Join TravBuddy to leave comments, meet new friends and share travel tips!
volcanic surroundings of Tsagaan N…
volcanic surroundings of Tsagaan …
Horseback riding at Tsagaan Nuur
Horseback riding at Tsagaan Nuur
Doggie and Robbel fighting over a …
Doggie and Robbel fighting over a…
Tsagaan Nuur
Tsagaan Nuur
volcanic surroundings of Tsagaan N…
volcanic surroundings of Tsagaan …
Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur
photo by: Deats