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Day 6: Trekking start from Basgo to Likir

Likir Travel Blog

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On the road towards Nimu.

The architecture, too, is different from anything I've seen so far: stone walls and rugged houses with flat roofs that seem to have bushy undergrowth piled on top of them. (I never worked out if these rooftop toupees were fuel stores or a form of insulation.)

 

Michael Palin - Himalaya

 

After another early start of the day and chewing away at breakfast while trying to wake up we left the Mountain Edge hotel for a five day trekking.

Wew either hit a kid ot this is another good luck charm ...
The two busses drove westwards across the Kargil highway and after an hour we passed the confluence of the Indus and Zanskar rivers. After a tea break in the tiny hamlet Nimmo we arrived in the not much bigger Basgo where we were dropped off on the road above the town.

 

The group was accompanied by trekking guide Dadul and his sidekick Jimmy and at 9:00 AM we started a trek that theoretically would last 4 hours. However, taking into account the many necessary breaks to catch our breaths, we would not reach our destination, Likir, before 14:20.

The Zanskar and Indus rivers meet.
The route along the way was stunning. We started on a road and soon reached the tiny village Tunglung, behind which we crossed a field of green grass and several mountain streams. Behind these lay a mountain which we had to climb via a path up the steep slope, bringing us 165 meters higher. I was highly surprised not to find a downhill slope on the other side but a big, windy desert plateau. It took us several hours to cross this wasteland where sandy plains and stretches of rocky desert alternated. Everywhere you could spot the little stone towers people had built on this pass, the Tunglung-La. The only life here seemed to be the very well camouflaged lizards and purple heath-like plants and patches of dry grass.

 

Food was well taken care of. Dadul handed out apricot nuts and at 11:30, having made our way across half of the plateau, we consumed the contents of our lunchboxes at a group of sheltering rocks. The high mountains that could be seen from this spot were showered by rain, but fortunately the weather gods smiled down on us, giving us cloudy weather and cools breezes, perfect for a day of walking.

Baking Puri.

 

As mentioned we arrived in Likir around 14:30, being welcomed by the crew with tea and cookies. After the whole group had arrived the colourful tents that the crew had already set up were divided and more tea and fried vegetable snacks followed.

 

For the die-hards among us (including yours truly) there was one more activity planned. Although tired five of us would not want to miss a visit to Likir monastery and accompanied by Dadul we left at 16:00 and arrived around five o' clock after an exhausting climb over the roads and stairs of the monastery that was beautifully located on a hill at the end of the valley. This Klu-kkhyil Gompa was headed by a brother of the Dalai Lama and featured a nice museum full of old thangkas and other old objects. We visited the assembly hall and the hall of protectors where Dadul asked a monk to bless his prayer flags he was planning to place at one of the coming day's mountain passes. The highlight however was the enormous 10 year old statue of the Maitreya Buddha at the roof.

 

After this interesting visit we went back to the camping site, 200 meters lower. Upon our arrival the cooks had finished dinner for the group and we were treated to a delicious soup, French fries, Dhal, rice, vegetables and salads. Most special of all was the cake with text 'Jullay, have a nice trek in Ladakh' which the friendly 6 man crew had baked for us. After dinner and some cups of tea it was time to get some sleep. This had been another exhausting day and bit by bit everybody disappeared in their tents.

Devika1985 says:
awww man
dus wel veel inspanning maar een ontzettend goed verzorgde reis zie ik wel :D
heerlijk zeg! supertof :D
Posted on: Aug 16, 2008
bamiforall says:
Hi Ed nice to hear from you again.Still no pics???
I think your beerbelly might be replaced by a TEAbelly at the end of this trip!!

p.s. If you can SEE the "" very well camouflaged lizards "" they aren't so very well camouflaged,are they??!!

keep on trekking
Posted on: Aug 13, 2008
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On the road towards Nimu.
On the road towards Nimu.
Wew either hit a kid ot this is an…
Wew either hit a kid ot this is a…
The Zanskar and Indus rivers meet.
The Zanskar and Indus rivers meet.
Baking Puri.
Baking Puri.
Tunglung valley.
Tunglung valley.
Donkey at Tunglung.
Donkey at Tunglung.
House at Tunglung.
House at Tunglung.
House at Tunglung.
House at Tunglung.
Green fields at Tunglung.
Green fields at Tunglung.
Climbing the Tunglung-La.
Climbing the Tunglung-La.
Climbing the Tunglung-La.
Climbing the Tunglung-La.
Climbing the Tunglung-La.
Climbing the Tunglung-La.
Climbing the Tunglung-La.
Climbing the Tunglung-La.
View from the Tunglung-La.
View from the Tunglung-La.
The barren plateau beyond Tunglung…
The barren plateau beyond Tunglun…
The barren plateau beyond Tunglung…
The barren plateau beyond Tunglun…
Lunch break.
Lunch break.
Camouflaged lizard.
Camouflaged lizard.
Crossing the barren plateau beyond…
Crossing the barren plateau beyon…
The barren plateau beyond Tunglung…
The barren plateau beyond Tunglun…
Getting closer to Likir.
Getting closer to Likir.
Camp site at Likir.
Camp site at Likir.
Likir Gompa.
Likir Gompa.
Likir Gompa.
Likir Gompa.
Likir Gompa.
Likir Gompa.
Inside Likir Gompa.
Inside Likir Gompa.
Butter lamps at Likir Gompa.
Butter lamps at Likir Gompa.
Buddha statue at Likir Gompa.
Buddha statue at Likir Gompa.
View from Likir Gompa.
View from Likir Gompa.
The crews cake.
The crew's cake.
Likir
photo by: edsander