The ger camp

Terelj Travel Blog

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On horse back

At the border, we get out of the train at a covered station where a large crane lifts each rail car off of its bogey and on to another.  Apparently the rail gauge in Russia and Mongolia is much wider than in China.  After a brief overnight in Ulaanbataar, it's off to the ger camp.  Already freezing cold at night and cool in the day, the leaves are turning with autumn colors.  It's obscenely beautiful here.  After the chaos and noise of China, it's quiet and clean.  Do some horseback riding into the countryside.  I get off my horse to walk up to large hairy yak.  He sees me coming and starts to charge.  I didn't know I could run that fast.  Don't think I'll try that again.  One afternoon, we rode to an ajacent ger village.

Ger camp near ours
  Since tourists are still very rare, the housewive of one tent invited us in as guests of honor.  We sit around in a circle and she passes around a tin full of sour yak cream and we try a smear of some on a bite of something resembling a waffle.  Next comes the buttermilk.  It's very bitter.  Then hard pieces that look like rock candy.  They are fermented mares milk and I have a really hard time keeping it down.  Finally, a tin bowl containing a clear liquid that burns like fire.  Homemade hooch, it turn out to be, and it could double as an industrial cleaner. 

At night, without the city lights and with all that dry air at high elevation, the skies came alive like I've never seen them before.  Stars so bright and multitudinous that it almost looked artificial.  We saw a few falling stars and once, a star that slowly arced across the sky at a nice steady pace.  Either a satellite or the Space Shuttle.   The ger tent is very comforable and warm, with a heater/stove in the center of the room. 

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On horse back
On horse back
Ger camp near ours
Ger camp near ours
The yak that chased me.  Bad yak!
The yak that chased me. Bad yak!
Blonde haired child
Blonde haired child
Im that blue blob under the Dino…
I'm that blue blob under the Dino…
Terelj
photo by: vickie-lou