On the road again -- Opatija to Split

Dalmatia Travel Blog

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Hotel Krilo (photo from their web site). They must have taken this one when it was still new...

We left Opatija fairly early for our long drive, anticipating Romanian-like conditions. But there were no construction delays, no stop-and-go traffic… it was smooth sailing all the way. The beautiful mountains and rolling hills scenery didn’t prevent the nearly 5-hour highway drive from being completely boring. Undoubtedly the coastal road would have been more interesting, but it probably would have also doubled our time.  

I have heard mixed reviews on the city of Split. My guidebook calls it “spectacular and unusual” and I have heard good things from other travelers as well. But recent reviews on Tripadvisor.com talk of garbage and bad conditions … so I guess I will just have to judge for myself in a visit.
Our room at Hotel Krilo.
The first impression of Split, viewed from the road, is not a pretty one. We could see rows of concrete buildings and not much else. These must be the post WWII apartment complexes mentioned in my guidebook. Not so nice.

Saving Split for tomorrow, we drove past it on to our hotel. We are staying just down the coast of Split, in an area called Krilo. The drive along the coast was very pretty, the water clear and blue. It was really built up with hotels and apartments, and cluttered with signage. Lots of people. too. This is an extremely popular vacation spot, and we are here at the peak of the season. I should know better (I DO know better), but it’s just how it worked out with the schedule.

3-star Hotel Krilo, booked late and with a certain amount of desperation, is not as bad as I thought it would be.
The clock tower at Trojir, viewed from neighboring island Ciovo.
It’s right on the water and our room has a balcony. It’s also very clean, which in my book is absolutely the most important thing. But nothing is perfect… our room is small and dark (the balcony door is heavily shuttered against the sun, and there are no windows). The rate was $165/night… it’s really too high for this place, but reasonable compared to the overpriced options in Split (and all of those were full anyway).

We spent very little time in the room before we were back in the car, out for more exploration and dinner. We drove to yet another medieval town/island called Trojir. It was crowded and congested, but we somehow found free parking on the neighboring island (which is attached to Trojir by another bridge). We roamed around and admired the cuteness of the town (stone homes, cobblestones, flower boxes…the works) and then settled on a pizza place for dinner.
The harbor in front of our hotel. Where old boats go to die.
I know, pizza again. It’s become a bad habit for us. It’s sooooo good here though, and this one was particularly delicious.

After more walking around and admiring the architecture and people’s ice creams (but not partaking this time), we drove back to the hotel. The other guests were out enjoying the hotel terrace with wine and beers (and of course, packs of cigarettes, which kept us away). The dusky pink light in the harbor was so pretty, it even made the rusting boats docked there look quaint and romantic. Still not worth $165, but not such a bad place at all.  
 
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Hotel Krilo (photo from their web …
Hotel Krilo (photo from their web…
Our room at Hotel Krilo.
Our room at Hotel Krilo.
The clock tower at Trojir, viewed …
The clock tower at Trojir, viewed…
The harbor in front of our hotel. …
The harbor in front of our hotel.…
We parked our car on Ciovo island,…
We parked our car on Ciovo island…
Closer view of the clock tower at …
Closer view of the clock tower at…
Trojir architecture.
Trojir architecture.
Cool and delicious...Nescafe?! Yes…
Cool and delicious...Nescafe?! Ye…
Steve stole this shot and she does…
Steve stole this shot and she doe…
In Trojir.
In Trojir.
Trojir alleyway.
Trojir alleyway.
Me in Trojir.
Me in Trojir.
Just who do you call for help when…
Just who do you call for help whe…
Trojir passages.
Trojir passages.
The harbor at Trojir.
The harbor at Trojir.
Dusk on the harbor in front of our…
Dusk on the harbor in front of ou…
Dalmatia
photo by: gooseberry