The deepest hobbit hole and the highest fairy chimney in all the land.

Happy Independence Day!

Derinkuyu is Cappadocia’s largest excavated underground city, and a portion (about 10%) of it is open to tourists. Today we explored its labyrinthine tunnels and stairways, descending about 55 meters (180 feet) underground. What a way to live! In one area, we were crouched way down -- actually bent in half -- while climbing a long stairway, as the tunnel around us got smaller and smaller. I thought, “Hmmm, I’ve had this experience before…in a  nightmare!” Seriously, claustrophobics should steer clear of this place!

The inhabitants of Derinkuyu were Christians, hiding from religious persecution. Between the Romans and, later, the Arab raiders, they spent a lot of time hiding and praying. The city was fully equipped for life underground, with a winery, kitchens, stables, churches, storage houses, and wells. There were about 11 floors, and passage between different sections could be blocked by a round stone door rolled into the entrance. It is estimated that the city could accommodate up to 50,000 people!

This was a pretty interesting visit, although a bit crowded. The entrance fee is 10TYL. Bring a sweater, it’s cool down there!

After Derinkuyu, we went to Uchisar “Castle”, which is the highest fairy chimney in Cappadocia. It is completely carved out with caves and tunnels, and was once home to many people, who have moved out due to the dangers of collapse. This is the highest point and the best viewpoint in all the land. We once again admired the landscape from this new vantage, and identified the many valleys and trails we have visited here in Cappadocia. Everything is visible from Uchisar. Recommended.

We picked up groceries and ate lunch on our balcony, and then we went back to Pigeon Valley to visit Hasan and his Shade Tea Garden. We had tea with him yesterday, but no money to pay…today we settled our debt. When we got there, Hasan was busy at work … setting up new seating. I guess he is expecting a rush? Please go visit Hasan…he needs your business!

In the evening, we had a very quiet Independence Day celebration, with dinner at Alaturka, in Goreme. This place was recommended by both Fodor’s and Lonely Planet. It is a beautiful setting, and we enjoyed the gorgeous weather on one of their outdoor balconies. We started with meze, a collection of various small dishes of vegetables and cheese spreads served with hot bread. Yum! This was great. Then I had a huge green salad (good) and Steve had a terrible-looking dried out chicken dish served with cold mashed potatoes and canned peas. He reported that it was every bit as bad as it looked! A big disappointment.   

And that pretty much wraps up our time in Cappadocia. Tomorrow we will head east to Mt Nemrut and the quiet town of Kahta. But... I really don’t want to leave here! What a wonderful place this is… I think I could stay forever.