Splitsville.

Dalmatia Travel Blog

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Standing in the bread line.
Today was a special “bank holiday” in Croatia, which means that everything -- even the grocery stores (!) -- was closed. We and dozens of other confused tourists in our ‘hood had some trouble finding breakfast. Tragedy! Some people on foot had no options at all, but with our car we just drove further into Split, and eventually found a bakery doing brisk business. Tragedy averted. Steve stood in a long line for bread (just like the old days of communism, I assume) while I picked up yogurt at the small shop next door, which I think was actually closed. The lights were out and the shades were down, but a lady turned on her register and took my money nonetheless.

We ate in the car on the way into the city.
Tourist overload in the Peristyle.
Even at 9:30 am, it was very congested. We found a spot (about $2 per hour) in front of the medieval center of the city, and followed the crowds in.  

Split has gotten rave reviews from other travelers and travel books and I see why. The city center’s walls were built in the 3rd century as a palace, and inside the walls are all sorts of historic architectural wonders and old stone homes. But despite this I am sorry to report I did not enjoy our visit all that much. It wasn’t the city’s fault. It was just so overrun by other tourists and cruise shippers “following the flag” that there was no room for quiet observation and enjoyment… we just got jostled and bumped. I hate crowds.

The center is very compact and we quickly visited all the sites prescribed by Fodor’s, following along on our map like good little tourists.
We found shade in the People's Square.
The Peristil (main square) and Cathedral of St. Dominus were both overrun, but the ancient Vestibul, an open-top dome structure, was kind of quiet (for two minutes before it filled up) and was thus was my favorite.   

We found the only shaded seat at Narodni Trg (People’s Square) and hung out there for a good long time, people watching and perspiring despite the slight breeze. It was a very hot day. We watched the same two overladen backpackers walk through the square three times, squinting at their map and looking confused. I hope they found their place.

From there, we walked along the harbor to the far side of Split, then walked back again. We've seen Split.
My salad was so good, it deserved a close up.
.. now what? We got in the car and tried to find a restaurant listed in our guidebook, but soon discovered we were dangerously low on gas (again), and took off to find fuel. Easily done. Now it was seriously time to find lunch.

On the recommendation of our hotel manager, we stopped at a beach-side restaurant located between our hotel and the town of Omis. There were high winds blowing the menus and whipping the tablecloth, but it felt good after the still heat and humidity of the day. We had great salads, served with a huge bread basket, and it was all delicious food in a gorgeous setting. Sure wish I remembered the name of the place.

After lunch, we visited the crazy busy town of Omis just down the road.
Early evening sun over the Adriatic.
  We found an open grocery store and stocked up, then it was back to the hotel for rest and relaxation, and a walk along the harbor. Even late in the day, every horizontal plane was covered by bodies. There is no real “beach” expanse here, so people take what they can get I guess, even if it’s just a patch of concrete. The water is so clear and beautiful -- I wanted to swim but didn’t have a towel, so made due with wading while some German children had a blast moving rocks from one side of the beach to the other.  

In the evening, we basically repeated those last paragraphs in reverse order. First we went to Omis (even MORE busy) to get a better look at the town (cute) and find a dinner option (overpriced tourist fare on offer). Finding nothing and feeling turned off by the crowds, we ended up back at our same lunch place whose name I still can’t remember. This time we sat inside, lucky to get a table without a reservation. It was very busy and the service was slow, though our waiter was trying hard to keep up. I had salad again and Steve had fresh fish. He kept exclaiming that it was fantastic. Mine was great too, but I was sooo tired. By the time we were served our check I was falling asleep at the table and so ready to be in bed...


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Standing in the bread line.
Standing in the bread line.
Tourist overload in the Peristyle.
Tourist overload in the Peristyle.
We found shade in the Peoples Squ…
We found shade in the People's Sq…
My salad was so good, it deserved …
My salad was so good, it deserved…
Early evening sun over the Adriati…
Early evening sun over the Adriat…
The balcony can be endured only in…
The balcony can be endured only i…
Worth the wait!
Worth the wait!
Breakfast in transit.
Breakfast in transit.
The harbor at Split.
The harbor at Split.
Waterside at Split.
Waterside at Split.
Below grade at Diocletians Palace.
Below grade at Diocletian's Palace.
View of the cathedral from the Per…
View of the cathedral from the Pe…
The open dome of the Vestibul.
The open dome of the Vestibul.
Inside the Cathedral of St. Domini…
Inside the Cathedral of St. Domin…
Gaudy stuff inside the Cathedral o…
Gaudy stuff inside the Cathedral …
What does this mean? No holding ha…
What does this mean? No holding h…
I think we are looking towards the…
I think we are looking towards th…
Love this guy.
Love this guy.
A pox on your family!
A pox on your family!
Tour groups finding shade in Split.
Tour groups finding shade in Split.
Its hard to remain virtuous when …
It's hard to remain virtuous when…
Residential area within Splits an…
Residential area within Split's a…
Cruise ships outside spell B-I-G  …
Cruise ships outside spell B-I-G …
Split, taken from the other side o…
Split, taken from the other side …
Cant imagine why this fine craft …
Can't imagine why this fine craft…
Reminds me of story time at the li…
Reminds me of story time at the l…
Our lunch spot, where the tableclo…
Our lunch spot, where the tablecl…
Beach view from the restaurant.
Beach view from the restaurant.
Our lunch.
Our lunch.
Wading with the German kids.
Wading with the German kids.
There is an actual beach near our …
There is an actual beach near our…
A variation on volleyball, with fr…
A variation on volleyball, with f…
That flag stands no chance against…
That flag stands no chance agains…
Steve is presented with some dinne…
Steve is presented with some dinn…
Steve chooses his dinner.
Steve chooses his dinner.
Dalmatia
photo by: gooseberry