Golfito Travel Blog

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Get up very early, already before the sun (at 05:00). We drink a cup of coffee and see behind the clouds that the day is starting. There is already a lot of action in the rainforest and also (and only) in our room. At 05:30 sharp Timo starts the Daihatsu Bego and we drive onto the small road to the Interamericana. In twenty minutes we’re there. We need to use first gear almost all the time, because it is that steep we would not make it uphill otherwise. In the fog the road leads over the Interamericana to San Isidro de General. We have to overtake a lot of trucks, because we have a tight schedule. Sometimes it really is hard to pass, but Timo does his best. In two hours we have passed the highest mountains, over the Cerro de la Muerte. From this point the road goes a bit up and down as far as Dominical, about 35 kilometers. We loose a few minutes in roadblocks, but we’re doing good. In Dominical we see three times a laughing falcon in the middle of the road, even the birds of prey are not shy here. From Dominical to Cortes and Palmar Sur the road is in good state and all the way to Golfito. At 10:00 we arrive there and we soon find Samoa del Sur Hotel and Restaurant. We have a drink and wait until 12:45 when our boat leaves for Golfo Dulce Lodge. We see terns, frigate birds and brown pelicans. After a short boatride (half an hour) we arrive. We receive a drink as welcome and have bungalow The Toucan. Again a large bungalow with a single and a double bed, a clean bathroom and a large terrace with hammock. We immediately prepare for lunch and slip into something more comfortable, because it’s very hot and very humid. But,… We have only had two showers today of about 20 minutes. For lunch we get a salad with cheese and turkey and bread and we drink water. After lunch we walk to the platform. On our way to the platform we see peccaries, chestnut mandibled toucan and many different kinds of trees. The trees had numbers and we had received a paper with the corresponding numbers and an explanation. On the platform that is not really solid we see two macaws and afterwards another three flying over us, high in the sky. On our way back we see two more toucans and some smaller birds. We go and sit at the beach and spot a green kingfisher and three crabs in a pool; the crabs have blue pincers. We look out over the Golfo Dulce and the sun is trying to come through the thick clouds, but it does not seem to work that well. After our short hike we drink a beer and water at the restaurant and enjoy the fluttering of the hummingbirds and other birds. Eef check which species we’re looking at. Also here we see a very large green spider. We’ve seen that one for three times already and during our trip in 2005 not once. We write our diary on our terrace with two candles of the lodge and two Imperial. We like it a lot here. In the garden there are three guans – we think, but later we know these are great curassows, and small lizards are running over the wood of the bungalow. “I’ve got it”, says Eef, “scarlet rumped tanagers”. We enjoy the peace and quietness, because quiet that is really how it is here. It is a private property with eight cabins and many trees, animals, really the actual rainforest. It is something completely different from other things we saw previously. The atmosphere is different, because we’re at the sea. What we notice here is the large amount of leafcutter ants. They have created deep ‘roads’ in the forest. Dinner is salad, pasta with meat, sauce and cauliflower and broccoli. We drink juice of papaya with pineapple. For dessert we get ice cream with fresh pineapple. We like it but are very tired. At 20:15 we go to our cabin, light the candles and go to sleep at 21:00. At least we try, because it’s raining very hard and some wild animals have chosen our roof as their playground. Through the mosquito nets in the top of the room we see fireflies or something similar. After about an hour we fall asleep despite the musty smell of our pillows. That is the biggest disadvantage of a rainforest and so much rain. You can’t make anything dry anymore and also for some lodges this is a disaster, because there is already mould on the curtains. It happens that way when it rains for weeks and the sun doesn’t show to dry things.

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photo by: Biedjee