cathedrals,cafes and scouse
Liverpool Travel Blog› entry 2 of 2 › view all entries
Up early and since i saw some sunshine i drove off to the city centre , probably with a TB blog in mind .
Its so long since i left this city that i sometimes get lost , but i found the pier head and got a shot of the Mersey ferry coming in , i beleive there are two ferries and the fare will be cheap , although i didnt take the trip myself ; i would recommend a ferry trip to any visitor , there is a romance about it and also the Gerry and the Pacemakers song : 'ferry across the mersey' .
Liverpool is the European capital of culture this year , goodness knows what that involves , but it does not involve ensuring that the litter is cleared up and as usual it was much in evidence on my 4 mile route to the centre .
It was also noticeable that the traffic wardens were out , in uniform at 09:25 on this sunday and by now drizzly morning , i guessed that there must be money in it for them and the authorities , and maybe they feel that clearing up the litter does not pay well enough.
there was not so much around the cathedrals and museum .
The Anglican cathedral is like a huge monolith and i could nt really get far enough away from it to get it all in a pic (so i didnt)i took a few inside but it is so huge and dark inside that i have only posted one , entry is free , there is a box for donations , there was a service starting so i didnt hang around .I made my way along Hope st the short distance to the Roman Catholic cathedral which is circular and looks a bit like a space module from outside (liverpudlians jokingly call it paddys' wigwam..there is no offence meant ).It is beautiful inside , there was a choir practise going on and they were very very good . around the periphery are little alcoves and altars to various saints and a nice statue of christ with little children .
There was a service just starting here also and not wanting to be in the way i decended the steps to the excellent cafe of the cathedral ,
see pic, i would have had a panini but was gently informed that they do not do anything hot until after 10:00 , very strange .
I also noticed on the menu that they had scouse .
Now , scouse is the name given to a local dish which is actually like irish stew but with lamb used as meat (i think it was about £5) and people from Liverpool are sometimes known as 'scousers'.The cafe/restaraunt is spaceous well lit and quite tastefully furnished .
Coming out of the cafe the bells were hammering out thier tune and reminded me of notradame cathedral in paris .
There were a few tourists around the cathedral , Spaniards i think , and quite a few Chinese types , probably locals since lpool has the oldest chinese community in europe .
Walking back along Hope st (well done liverpool for having two cathedrals close together and linked by a street with such a name) and there is the Philharmonic hall where the Royal Liverpool Orchestra perform . Closeby in a side road which leads downhill towards the centre ,Hardman St , was a little cafe , Quick Chef ,where i got a reasonable breakfast including coffee for only £3 , they also had the days' newspapers , this will be a good eating place for TB backpackers .
I think it is egyptian run , the food was quickly ready and fairly tasty , the cafe clean and tidy , you will not get better and cheaper in the uk.There is a pic of it with this blog .
I was too early for the Museum and Art Gallery , which don't open until 10:00 am on sundays , they are free entry and the Art Gallery has a nice cafe/snack bar .I am not sure of the date of the buildings themselves , my mother used to tell me that the original museum and most of its contents were destroyed by German bombs in WW2 .In fact the whole of the city centre was very badly damaged in the blitz of 1940/41 and i have seen a photo in the museum from that time and the only things left standing were the Liver buildings , and everything else was brick rubble , with roads cleared thru it .
In between the museum and Art gallery there is an international library , all of these are in the shadow of St Georges hall , and Lime Street station (Beatles song..'..maggie maggie may , they ve taken her away , she 'll never walk down lime street anymore'.
For those not interested in Football..better skip the rest of this entry .
I later visited anfield , the day after the game ; to buy a T shirt . There were lots of foreign visitors , all in Liverpool hats/shirts or scarfs , many of them were scandanavians and some germans too . It looks like a multi million pound operation and some of the kit was expensive , bearing in mind that Liverpool have a very large following many of whom are relatively poor working class people , they were queuing up in 3 aisles to pay . I dont like it , given the offhand treatment i received when trying to apply for tickets for yesterdays game on the credit card line , and my long history as a fan ;when living close to the training ground ,as a schoolboy i was lucky enough to occasionally fag the ball for their 5 a side games .
Around Anfield and Goodison Park ( Evertons' ground) are rows and rows of late C19 terraced housing , which would have been new when the grounds were built , and from where both clubs would receive a lot of support .These streets and houses are now run down and often derelict and an eyesore .That is not to say that all the residents have all gone and many remain with empty houses on either side , probably when both clubs get new grounds , the whole area will be redeveloped .
They didnt have my size in the T shirt , i am between M and L and they had neither in the one i wanted , the alternative for me would be to buy another T shirt for £20 and frankly it wasnt worth the money .They sell a lot online in case any lpool fans read this , it is not for me to advertise the website tho , i donna lika big buisiness.
Evertons' ground is half a mile away and i briefly visited that in order to get a pic for this blog. They nowadays call themselves the 'peoples club' and tho i dont want to attract visitors to watch them play there are underlying reasons for this imo.
a. Everton have lower attendances for thier games and want to encourage more fans to come and watch them , and usually would have tickets available because the stadium is usually not full when they play .
b. Liverpool average something like 42,000 per game and play to a full stadium and have no spare seats .Because of this they tend to take thier supporters for granted and are therefore not 'people friendly' , to my great dissapointment .
Any lpool/everton fans reading this and not liking it , pls send complaints to the head office .
The people of the city of Liverpool have a strange accent , a mixture of south lancashire , welsh , irish with a little bit of sea salt thrown in ,
Contrary to what some people in other parts of the Uk like to beleive , whilst liverpool does have the Wayne Rooneys and Robbie Fowlers of this world , it also has the Ann Robinsons (tv personality ) and the late George Melly (jazz singer and art critic) amongst it's sons and daughters , both of the later are middle classed and speak the queens' english , they probably came from south liverpool which is posh(ish)
there is little religious tension in the city , there are things more important ..
Like football , make no mistake about it , the pride and passion of this city is focussed on its' football teams , and if you should be stuck for words or conversation in this city then just ask them which team they support , and for a longer conversation ask them about :
Emlyn , Shanks ,Rushy , Kenny or El Nino .
and Bally , Dixie , Duncan and Andy..for Everton fans .
Liverpools' ground has the ashes of hundreds of deceased fans spread on the track around the playing area , and when i visited Springwood cemetary last year ; where there are thousands of graves , i saw that several of the tombstones had the liverpool football club emblem engraved onto them .
Links : http://www.liverpool.com/
sorry but this blog has got out of sequence , i do work in IT ,so it cant be my fault . :-[