Roma, Prosecco, and Questioning the time/space barrier.
We arrived in Roma Termini at 11:08 am. It had been cooler in 
The subway system in
The Rome Metro was unlike any other experience I've ever had in my life; never have I been smooshed into that small a space with that many people.
Finally, we arrived at our stop and dragged our luggage up the stairs to the open air. Just ahead of us lay the intersection that we'd been told about; we reached it, turned right, and crossed the street; we had arrived at our lovely destination.
Check in was smooth, and we headed to our room. It was lovely. We were so happy and excited to be in this beautiful room, in
We had very limited time in 
We found a tour bus offer in the metro station, and purchased the tickets. They told us where to catch the bus, and we headed out to it - a left out of the building, then turning right down the next street. After we had made the right turn and were headed to the square where the bus would meet us, I heard Michelle make a little sound of surprise; she had just had her butt pinched by an old man.
Our bus pulled up and was going to be on break for a bit before pulling back out, so we stood outside and got to know our bus driver a bit. He had immigrated to 
Then, our bus ride started. It was closing in on evening, and the temperature had changed quickly; so while I had been too warm at noon, now I was freezing. The main problem was simply being on top of an open air bus that was moving quickly thru the streets; the wind was too much for me to handle, so while Michelle continued to tough it on top of the bus, I decided to move below and accept a pane of glass betweeen the sites and myself.
We had just been looking at the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument , and then we turned the corner... and there was the Coliseum. All of a sudden, I couldn't breath. I couldn't look away. I was stunned by my reaction, I had expected to be so strongly moved by it, but it was so much bigger than I had imagined, and so ancient.
We also circled the ruins of the Roman Forum, and again, there was this strong sense of having left reality; how could something so old, from a completely different time, be co-existing with me at this moment? I felt like I must have ended up in some alternate universe, where paralel worlds had collided.
We ran back to the hotel to change, and then it was time to meet Dario for the evening. We rushed from the hotel back over to the Coliseum, and met him at his car. He took us to Piazza Campo De' Fiori, where we sat outside and drank Prosecco, which is a type of Italian champagne. On glass turned into two, which turned into another... it was one of the best things I'd ever tasted. We had arrived around 7:00, and now it was after 10:00.
We then walked over to where one of his friends was having a party to say hello for a minute, then continued on to our restaurant, Trattoria di Roma.
Our meal was amazing. The company was great, the food was incredible, the wine perfect and there is nothing that could have made it more fun. We tried to pay for the meal, Dario would have none of it. We left the restaurant and began to walk, and there is something surreal about wandering past the Pantheon in the middle of the night. Do people that live in
We walked to Dario's favorite gelato spot. I was way too full, but Michelle and Dario each tried some. It was funny after I returned home from my trip to notice that our very own Eric had been to the same gelato place!! This world is so small.
Once we left the gelato place, we caught a cab back to the 
So away the three of us went, to the bar, and began to do shots. We were laughing and having a wonderful time, and finally it was time to leave. There had been three men at the table near us, and Michelle and I felt sure they were brothers; they looked just like each other. While I don't remember how or why this became important in our alcohol induced states, somehow Michelle and I ended up talking Dario into asking them for confirmation; mostly, I believe, because he didn't agree with us.
So Michelle and I headed outside and waited for Dario there as he approached their table. He came out the door a minute later, looking completely disgusted, yelling at us, "They're not brothers - they're not even from the same town!! Michelle and I broke into laughter, and we all started to head back to the 
We reached our hotel and went to sleep around 4:30 am that morning.
Buona notte, Roma.
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The Eternal City, home of ancient buildings, miracles of man, and a joy and appreciation for the good life that I have found no where else so far on my travels.
So to fully appreciate it, what do you do for the evening? Look up my friend Dario. Failing that, try to follow and recreate the path he took us on for one of the best nights I've ever had.
We started out in Campo de' Fiori, a rectangular piazza near Piazza Navona. There is a great place here to sit outside, order champagne, talk, order more champagne, and just... enjoy. We stayed a long time; I don't remember how long, but the sun set, and I know the 10:00pm dinner reservations were called and pushed.
Then, on to dinner, at Trattoria di Roma. It's walking distance from here. This restaurant is fantastic. When you walk in the door, there is a long bar on your right; but it's really more of a narrow hall that leads to stairs - the real restaurant is upstairs. They greeted Dario warmly, and then we all headed up.
The room was very cool, and very original; sleek and modern, the walls and lighting giving off an almost green glow. There was a minimalist feel, but not any forced way. The tables and chairs almost look like they belong in a very cool cafeteria. Silver racks act as barriers to other sections. Walls are covered in woven iron, copper, steel, and rope - Chef Filippo La Mantia felt these materials represented the "slow cooking" movement he so believes in himself.
This place seems to exist for the people that already know about it; try as I might, I can't find any website for it. The entrance is unassuming. It has a very A-level celebrity clientele list - John Travolta, Scarlett Johansson, etc, and seems to just want to focus on the people that already know about it, walk up these stairs, and find their way to this exclusive little hidden clubhouse.
And focus on them it does...
Starters include dishes such as Potatoes croquettes with cheese and mint, Raw fish with cherry tomatoes, basil and dry tomatoes, and Sardines' cutlets with cherry tomatoes and mint.
First courses include Pasta with crushed oranges, basil, eggplants and Sicilian cheese, Pasta with seasoned octopus with lemon and fennel pesto, and Bavette with red mullets' ragout
Second courses lead you to Veal filet filled with eggs, boloney, pine nuts and wild fennel, Fish balls with cherry tomatoes, capers and Marjorie, and Little squids with broadbeans and peas.
Finally, reaching your dessert, where to start? Hot chocolate cake, with red wine sauce? Spuma di pistacchio (pistachio cream)? Pineapple ravioli with berries and almonds' savarin?
Finish with the coffee. It's some of the best you can have.
It’s not a cheap meal – without the amazing wine, plan on $70 to $90 US a person for full courses. But as part of this special night, you’ll love it.
**Editorial note**
Once you leave this very special dinner, go down and take a walk by the Tiber River. Stand on one of the bridges, and let the reality of being in Rome, and the perfect night of Champagne outside in the Piazza, and then dinner at this special place sink in - like it even can. I mean, this is THE TIBER running under your feet. Ancient. Beautiful. Forever.
I wish you a night in Roma that brings you all that mine brought me; a profound sense of peace, a deep sense of happiness, a precious friendship that will last a lifetime, and a wonderful dinner, at Trattoria di Roma.
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