A little R+R

Khorog Travel Blog

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A view down the river that divides Khorog, with the main car bridge in view

People i met here who contributed to, and improved my trip: Julia (Russia), Sigrid (Belgium), David (Canada), Wouter (Holland)

Entering Khorog was like taking a step forward in time again, with cafes, bars, banks and internet shops once more lining the streets. Our driver took us up to the Pamir Lodge, which was located on the outskirts of town, but came highly recommended as a place to relax and meet other backpackers. It proved so popular that there was only one room available when we arrived, which Julia and I were given, which meant that David and Sigrid had to sleep out on the veranda for the night.

It took twenty minutes to walk into the centre, where we found the OVIR office and bank were both closed. As we hadn't eaten since breakfast, we ducked into a cafe and got served some thoroughly dreadful food. From here we went to catch up on news at the internet cafe, before heading back to the guest house to relax for the remainder of the afternoon.

In the evening we went out for Dinner together to the mafia styled Varka restaurant. The food was excellent, even if it did take well over an hour to arrive. Thankfully we had a group of people dancing around, and also a Tajik couple out on a date, which didn't seem to go too well, which kept us entertained.

On Sunday morning we met Wouter, who had arrived in Khorog a couple of days earlier and caught up on the gossip from his trip with Remy and Karol. Julia and I went to eat brunch in in a cafe, which had a great riverside location, before heading home to spend the afternoon lounging on the communal veranda of the bungalows.

Later in the day we returned with Wouter and Sigrid to the cafe by the river, as every other restaurant in town was shut. David had caught food poisoning from the cafe that we had lunch in the previous day, so he was laid up in bed. In the evening there was still no sign of anything opening, so we ended up in a guest house over the road from us, pleading for them to cook us some food. They were only too obliging and rustled up some salad, egg and chips. The rest of the evening was spent lounging outside our rooms, until we called it a night around 23.30.

I had a lie in on Monday morning until 11.00, before going out for some lunch with Julia. Kafe Kometa was listed by the Lousy Planet as Khorog's best restaurant, which proved they had never been here before. There was a choice of three dishes and we took a pathetic looking cutlet with macaroni and didn't get a drink as they only had piping hot Kampot or tea and no cold drinks at all!

It took four attempts to finally get to speak to the lazy sod in the OVIR office, where we were told that we needed to register, as he was on an unscheduled long lunch. When we did get a hold of him, he just told us to go away and that we didn't need to register here. Hopefully this advice was correct, time will tell i guess.

At the internet i received news from Stantours about my Uzbekistan Letter of Invitation, which was taking far longer than i had anticipated. Basically they were demanding a letter from my current employer, which i obviously couldn't give them. Ten days after submitting my application, they tell me to just forge a letter, which left me asking the question; why bother make me fake it when they could just do it themselves!? I'm sorry to say 'Asian' and 'common sense' very rarely feature in the same sentence.

Back at Pamir Lodge we hung out with Wouter, Sigrid and David, the latter two who were still suffering with bad stomachs from the muck that we had been fed in recent days! Sigrid decided to accompany Julia, Wouter and myself out to Dinner at Varka, which was once again the shining culinary light in the city! This time i had a salad with Chicken, egg, cheese, tomato and chips, which was excellent. The remainder of the evening was spent playing yahtzee out on the veranda at home.

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A view down the river that divides…
A view down the river that divide…
photo by: Biedjee