My God its HOT!

Samarkand Travel Blog

 › entry 375 of 658 › view all entries
Registan - Ulugbek Medressa

People i met here who contributed to, and improved my trip: Julia (Russia), Wouter (Holland), David (Canada)

The taxi from the border dropped us at the Registan, which is Samarkand's crown jewels. There wasn't time to stand and admire whilst we had our backpacks on, so we made a beeline for Bahobir B&B, which was conveniently located just a few hundred metres away. A young guy greeted us and showed us around and once we had decided on taking two dorm beds for $6 apiece, which included breakfast, we were then treated to some watermelon, tea, biscuits and honey, on the house. It was the perfect start to our stay in Uzbekistan and this felt much more like the hospitality we had been craving to experience during much of our time in Tajikistan.

The hostel was a fantastic little place, with an open courtyard that had plenty of seating areas to relax in and a really good communal vibe about it.

Registan - Sher Dor Medressa
Venturing into the 40 degree midday sun therefore didn't seem like the wisest move, but we were both hungry, so were left with little choice. Lonely Planet recommended a cheap cafe near the Registan, where we ended up eating, even though the prices had doubled. It really wasn't worth the money.

Our first mission was to change some money, which we did at a hotel, not realising that you could get a far better rate on the black market in the bazaar. We met up with Wouter in an internet cafe and found that he had also been sick in the Fan Mountains and had all his photos accidentally deleted from his camera by a local man! He therefore spent the rest of the day trying to download a file that could retrieve the deleted files.

Back at the hostel we met David, who had arrived here the previous day, and then had our Dinner, which was a large serving of meat, potatoes, cabbage, salad, fruit, biscuits and tea, all for a bargain $2.
Registan - Sher Dor Medressa
I chatted away with two motorbike riders until midnight, but i really wasn't feeling too great, so called it a night.

The following day i had a terrible migraine and fever, so we moved room to an air conditioned double, which only cost $20 and came with an en suite hot water bathroom. I spent the whole day with hot and cold sweats and dozing in and out of consciousness, it wasn't too pleasant!

The next day i woke up feeling pretty dreadful again, but managed to eat a little bit of breakfast. I spent the whole day in bed again, although my headache did clear up enough to allow me to read David's Lousy Planet on 'Azerbaijan, Armenia and Georgia'. I had a little bit of Dinner in the evening and was slowly feeling like i was getting better, and as we needed to get to Tashkent to hand in our Turkmenistan visa forms, i decided i would try and leave the following day.
Water feature


On Monday morning we ate breakfast and Wouter found a Lonely Planet for Iran, which was a bonus, as we still hadn't received the one that i had bought online. We caught a taxi to the bus station, which was really just a parking space at the bazaar and 5000 Sum ($3.70) got us a ticket for the five hour journey to Tashkent, Uzbekistan's capital.

Deats says:
Yep another one in the bag hahaha. I think we will make Turkey in November now, but im still uncertain with a few things. If the Iranians mess the visa up, then we fly there in the next month! Its pretty hot this part of the World at the minute, so be prepared for Turkey!!!
Posted on: Aug 05, 2008
portia says:
ohh, another country! I will be on my trip in 2 weeks, but it doesn't look like you will be anywhere near Turkey yet. Stay safe and cool!
Posted on: Aug 02, 2008
JeAr says:
oh no! i'm addicted to drinking water (seriously) so i don't think i'd survive for a week having very minimal amount of it! not even 2 days! as for the sunblock turning u white, don't u think it's about time u show the people ur true color? wahahaha! :D

we're off to Hanoi now... take care Phil! :)
Posted on: Aug 01, 2008
Join TravBuddy to leave comments, meet new friends and share travel tips!
Registan - Ulugbek Medressa
Registan - Ulugbek Medressa
Registan - Sher Dor Medressa
Registan - Sher Dor Medressa
Registan - Sher Dor Medressa
Registan - Sher Dor Medressa
Water feature
Water feature
Cemetery on a hill
Cemetery on a hill
Samarkand
photo by: Lotus28