Flat tyres and Throat singing

Harhorin Travel Blog

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Me, Julia, Harry, Mr Lee, Ed and Shuhei ready to set out on our great adventure

People i met here, who contributed to and improved my trip: Juliana (Russia), Ed (England), Harry (England), Shuhei (Japan), Mr Lee (South Korea), Bayra (Mongolia)

1 Mongolian driver (Bayra) and 6 bold travellers get ready to venture into the wilderness, we have 3 English (Ed, Harry and me) 1 Russian (Julia), 1 Japanese (Shuhei) and 1 Korean (Mr Lee). First stop.... beer shop. With 6 cold Borgio's freshly uncapped we were ready to take on the World! We immediately realised Mr Lee spoke no English and Shuhei only a limited amount, so a couple of beers seemed to help with the communication barriers!

Our first stop was a couple of hours west of Ulaanbaatar, at a small cafe for some lunch.

Mr Lee, Shuhei and Julia. Mr Lee has his lunch in hand
 A sheeps leg greeted us on the porch as we entered with trepidation. The inside was actually quite normal and the usual menu of mutton and dumplings was served up. Having eaten, we stocked up the van with a few more beers and trundled on into the wilderness. The roads deteriorated the further from Ulaanbaatar we travelled and soon asphalt was just a distant memory.

Our first major problem struck around 16.00, whilst having a toilet break. When the side door opened, i could hear a hissing sound, which Bayra came to inspect. The look on his face and hand gestures made everyone rush back to the van, as he motored on to the nearest small settlement for repairs. Luckily, this was only 10 minutes down the road and made for a pleasant break.

The community was like something from Mad Max, situated in the middle of a dusty patch of land, with car parts and old bath tubs littering the area.

A small village we stopped at for our tyre change
The people were friendly and Julia had a good chat with one guy who spoke fluent Russian and was now a farmer in this township of 40 souls. Eventually the mechanics fixed our tyre and we were on the move again.

Next stop was the 'mini Gobi', a small area of sand dunes for a quick 10 minute stop. Unbelievably we bumped into Brenton and Logan here, who we had met on Olkhon Island. We exchanged greetings before we had to move on, as the light faded into darkness.

We arrived in Kharkhorin, the former Mongol capital, and entered our felt ger around 20.00, as our host was just about to prepare dinner. Ed decided he would love to see traditional Mongolian cooking and went with her, to her ger. He came back 10 minutes later, with a big grin on his face and explained traditional Mongolian cooking was opening a bag and popping ready made dumplings into a pot of water! Oh well! Our ger had 6 beds circling the wall, with a log stove in the centre to provide heat and a table and chairs from which to eat and socialise.

Me and our throat singer drinking vodka
Not a bad set up in all honesty.

Dumplings digested, airag (fermented mares milk) and Chinggis Khan vodka opened, our next treat was a Mongolian throat singer. He played 4 different types of instrument and sang Mongolian songs about Ghengis Khan, the country and people. He even cried during one performance. It was all very impressive and Julia and i decided we had not heard enough, after his 40 minute performance, so payed him a few extra dollars to do a private performance, in a seperate ger. A few airags too many and he was playing love songs for us to dance to. Julia informed me in the morning it was very romantic, although the airag made my recollection of the evening mildly hazy!

Deats says:
the rainforest festival was amazing as it was totally alternative music. Was great to hear a bit of throat singing again! i have my CD waiting at home!
Posted on: Dec 17, 2008
lee-81 says:
REALLY!!! i've never met anyone who has ever heard of them people just think i'm weird because i listen to some unusual music.
Posted on: Dec 17, 2008
Deats says:
holy shit, i saw them last year in Kuching - you can see my blog from the rainforest festival, those guys were there! cool
Posted on: Dec 17, 2008
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Me, Julia, Harry, Mr Lee, Ed and S…
Me, Julia, Harry, Mr Lee, Ed and …
Mr Lee, Shuhei and Julia. Mr Lee h…
Mr Lee, Shuhei and Julia. Mr Lee …
A small village we stopped at for …
A small village we stopped at for…
Me and our throat singer drinking …
Me and our throat singer drinking…
Soaring bird of prey
Soaring bird of prey
Baira driving us into the unknown
Baira driving us into the unknown
A Mongolian girl in her doorway
A Mongolian girl in her doorway
A small Mongolian village
A small Mongolian village
A dog looks puzzled as our truck g…
A dog looks puzzled as our truck …
Bath time for Ed
Bath time for Ed
A cow waits for the next bus
A cow waits for the next bus
Ed and Mr Lee give up on the van a…
Ed and Mr Lee give up on the van …
Mongolian horseman
Mongolian horseman
Fixing the flat tyre
Fixing the flat tyre
Our mechanics emerge from the gara…
Our mechanics emerge from the gar…
I wonder if this car will get fixe…
I wonder if this car will get fix…
Our vans shadow plies the lonely h…
Our vans shadow plies the lonely …
Shuhei in the mini desert
Shuhei in the mini desert
Mr Lee, Julia, Ed and Shuhei in th…
Mr Lee, Julia, Ed and Shuhei in t…
Logan, Me, Julia, Brenton and Nick…
Logan, Me, Julia, Brenton and Nic…
Julia and a new friend share dinner
Julia and a new friend share dinner
Our very own one man band
Our very own one man band
Playing the flute
Playing the flute
Me with our hosts
Me with our hosts
Julia, Me and our new best friend
Julia, Me and our new best friend
Mr Lee sleeping outside in freezin…
Mr Lee sleeping outside in freezi…
Harhorin
photo by: Biedjee