Dragons Backbone

Longsheng, Guangxi Province Travel Blog

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Me and a local Yao woman.

People i met here, who contributed to and improved my trip: Juliana (Russia)

 

We arrived into Longsheng late afternoon on the 9th, deciding that it was time we had a monster feed. We found a nice looking restaurant and sat down in a little private room. The first sign something may be wrong was when each dish we requested was unavailable. Eventually we managed to order a chicken dish and a sweet and sour pork. As always, exaggerated finger pointing at ‘not spicy’ in our book was followed by a smile and nod of the head.

 

The first dish came out with countless chilis floating around, which pretty much set my mouth on fire.

Longsheng Rice Terraces
As we struggled through it we spotted a cockroach, which we squashed, hoping this would be the last of the matter. Within minutes another cockroach appeared, followed by another on the chair next to me. Starving, but knowing the food had probably been crawling with these things, and soon would be again, we made the backpacker choice…. Eat as much as we could as fast as we could and get the hell out of there!

 

The following day, we planned to get up around 8am, but all the travelling had taken its toll and we eventually surfaced nearer to midday. We packed our belongings and caught a local bus out to the nearby Dragons Backbone Rice Terraces. The bus firstly stopped for 20 minutes in a small town called Heping, this gave us a chance to look at the locals and get a close up view of some  minority cultures.

Longsheng Rice Terraces and village
A nice Yao women made some small talk and let me have a picture, but then told me it was an extra 10Y if I wanted a shot with her hair let down! Their hair is pretty impressive, stretching to the floor, but I politely declined the offer.

 

Next stop was a Yao village called Huangluo, where we got our first taste of how aggressively these Yao women tried to sell their products! A couple of women followed us over a bridge and down a path, refusing to leave until they had shoved every piece of bric-a-brac under our noses. As we began to climb the hill to Ping’an village, they thankfully left us in piece to enjoy the breathtaking scenery and terraced fields.

 

In Ping’an we received more harrassment from sellers at stalls, but this was all peaceful bargaining compared to what would come.

Me at the Longsheng Rice Terraces
As we headed round to the first scenic spot we passed a woman offering the hair picture and bracelets, but she left us alone after a minute or so of pestering. After witnessing the beauty of the area, we followed the path back past the Yao lady and started to walk to the second scenic spot. This time, she chose to follow us, constantly saying beautiful, hair, photo, looky, bracelet etc etc. After trying many times to explain there was no way we wanted any of these products, we pretty much gave up trying and had her annoy us for the next 15 minutes as we tried to get some peace, to enjoy the remarkable terraces and warm sunshine. We reached the second spot, took our photos, got pestered some more, then decided to head down to Ping’an to catch our bus back to Longsheng. At this point the woman turned nasty, gesturing we owed her money for her ‘accompanying us’ from points 1 to 2. When we refused and walked off I’m sure I heard the F word slip from her lips.
Me jumping for joy to be at the Longsheng Rice Terraces

 

Back in Ping’an we bought some postcards from a person who hadn’t chased us halfway round the terraces and went to the bus stop. The final straw with these Yao people came when a woman shoved her postcards into my hand. She then refused to take them back, repeatedly saying 5 Yuan 5 Yuan. I placed the postcards on a nearby log and calmly walked away, all the time bubbling with rage inside. A truly wonderful tourist attraction had slightly lost its edge, due to the people having no respect for others boundaries. In more ways than one, it had turned out to be a memorable day!

Back in Longsheng we encountered problems catching a bus to Guilin as it was 18.30 and all the local buses had stopped running. After been sent up and down the same street countless times, we were ready to give in and stay an extra night. An unlikely hero came to the rescue. A Chinese man who spoke English said that there was no bus stop but he could show us where we could buy tickets and wait. He then informed us he would take us for a fee in his tuk tuk…. Expecting the worst I was shocked he only wanted 2Y. He dropped us off, helped us buy the tickets and waved goodbye. It was a great end to a mixed day.

josephinedraper says:
When we went to Longji we stayed in Dazhie which is the next village to Ping'an. We had porters (elderly Yao women) who imprisoned us in the hostel room until we had bought some of their stuff - I think they've got the whole pushy sales thing down to a fine art!
Posted on: Nov 17, 2008
Deats says:
We were hungry, what can i say hehe ;)
Posted on: Jan 29, 2007
Amanda says:
This is one of those entries where the "smile" button doesn't really fit... the story in the start about the restaurant turned my stomach. I couldn't have done it. I'm not spoiled; at least, I don't THINK I am, and I'm all up to a point for bad food, or situations, and really laughing them off... but ICK! Seriously...
Posted on: Jan 27, 2007
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Me and a local Yao woman.
Me and a local Yao woman.
Longsheng Rice Terraces
Longsheng Rice Terraces
Longsheng Rice Terraces and village
Longsheng Rice Terraces and village
Me at the Longsheng Rice Terraces
Me at the Longsheng Rice Terraces
Me jumping for joy to be at the Lo…
Me jumping for joy to be at the L…
Family of ducks at the Longsheng R…
Family of ducks at the Longsheng …
Local walking down the Longsheng R…
Local walking down the Longsheng …
Village at the Longsheng Rice Terr…
Village at the Longsheng Rice Ter…
Julia at the Longsheng Rice Terrac…
Julia at the Longsheng Rice Terra…
Amazing views of the Longsheng Ric…
Amazing views of the Longsheng Ri…
Amazing views of the Longsheng Ric…
Amazing views of the Longsheng Ri…
Amazing views of the Longsheng Ric…
Amazing views of the Longsheng Ri…
Amazing views of the Longsheng Ric…
Amazing views of the Longsheng Ri…
Amazing views of the Longsheng Ric…
Amazing views of the Longsheng Ri…
Amazing views of the Longsheng Ric…
Amazing views of the Longsheng Ri…
Longsheng, Guangxi Province
photo by: Deats