Stupid Girl

Chhomrong Travel Blog

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Machhapuchere

We set off at 8am as today we want to reach Dobham from where we can make ABC tomorrow.  I have left my small pack at the guest house and Khim has left some things so we are traveling lighter.  Khim sets off wearing sandals and takes a few steps before realizing something is wrong and rushing back to put his boots on.  Khim insists that I take his pack and he carries mine, and for once I do not argue, and it works well as we are much better matched for pace. The Chinese girls were aiming to be off at 7am but are only a few minutes ahead of us and we pass them after 30 minutes at the bridge below Chhomrong.  They tell me they are heading for the guest house at Himalaya and I say we will see them later, but there must be a communication problem with their guide as Khim tells me that the guest house there is closed.

Chhomrong

Form Chhomrong we descend a long flight of stone steps to the river; I recall seeing a picture in Michael Palin’s book of a long stone staircase and make a mental note to check this when I get back to Pokhara.   On the way I buy a refill of filter water; it is no longer possible to buy mineral water as plastic bottles are now prohibited from sale.  We grind up the hill the other side and rest for tea in brilliant sunshine at Sinuwa.  There is a solitary girl sitting there when we arrive, but she does not talk to us and when we leave she is still there with her guide.  We are keen to press on and make excellent time along the good and easy path and reach Dobham for lunch just after 12.

Looking up the valley to MBC
  Just before lunch we catch up with a group of 4 locals carrying large loads including chairs.  They are on their way to Himalaya to open up one of the hotels, so the Chinese girls will be Ok after all.  The ASAP office marked on my map before Bamboo has been derelict for 5 years; I am learning not to trust too much of the detail on my map, but I am pleased I bought it and in the evening many people are keen to borrow it to see where they have been and where they will be going.

At lunch Khim suggests we walk for another 2 hours to Deurali, the final stop before MBC.  Khim does not want to stay at Himalaya, as this is avalanche prone, and it makes sense for us to go as far as possible today as we are moving well and it will make tomorrow that much easier. The path becomes steeper and there are a few patches of snow but the walk to Deurali is pleasant and we reach the guest house about 3pm just before the clouds sweep in.

Machhapuchere on the way to Deurali
  Without the sunshine it seems a bleak spot, tucked right down in the bottom of the deep valley between Huin Chulli and Machhapuchhere and there is plenty of snow.  Here we are at 3230m and have climbed 1200m today. 

I take a room with a friendly Korean and change into warm clothes and bag a good place at the dining table.  Shortly after 5pm the kerosene heater it lit which goes under the dining table and with a mug of hot chocolate the room is transformed.  Sitting next to me is a girl from Belgium, Ine, who like us has walked from Chhomrong.  She is walking by herself and does not have a guide or any gloves, hat, stick, sunglasses or waterproof.  As she arrived late and the guest house is full she also does not have a blanket and has only a light European sleeping bag.

Khim on the path
I ask Khim to see if he can find her a blanket and somehow he manages to get her one.  I tell Ine that we are leaving at 8am tomorrow if she wants to follow us, but she says she prefers to walk alone.

In the room my Korean friend is frantically searching for his walking trousers.  After 10 minutes he remembers he has left them in another room and he will retrieve them in the morning before he leaves.  His group will be leaving early (at 6am) tomorrow so they have plenty of time to come back down to Deurali.  I lie in bed and listen to the sound of small avalanches falling down the mountainside and wonder how close they are.

skippyed says:
Ok now I'm jealous!! gorgeous scenery, while my daily scenery is a cube farm!!! Can't believe that girl hiking without a guide and so ill equipped!
Posted on: Feb 25, 2008
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Machhapuchere
Machhapuchere
Chhomrong
Chhomrong
Looking up the valley to MBC
Looking up the valley to MBC
Machhapuchere on the way to Deurali
Machhapuchere on the way to Deurali
Khim on the path
Khim on the path
Machhapuchere again
Machhapuchere again
The guest house at Deurali
The guest house at Deurali
Chhomrong
photo by: Stevie_Wes