Typhoons in Sihanoukville Cambodia

Sihanoukville Travel Blog

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Our Lobster Lady friend in Sihanoukville


Today we took a four hour bus ride to the beach resort of Sihanoukville in western Cambodia. We opted for a taxi from the bus station to Serendipity Beach rather than two scooters with our packs on. While Cindy went to check out a few guesthouse options I talked to the taxi guy who really wanted to take us to a ''good cheep" guesthouse where he could get his commission. I tried to explain that a six dollar a night flophouse was not in the cards but he didn't get it.

Relaxing with a Beer Lao in Sihanoukville
Ends up he is a cop but only gets paid $30/month so he drives a cab too so he can pay for his three daughters to go to school - hope Cambodia doesn't believe in dowries.

After checking out our original planned place called Coasters and finding it lacking in the cleanliness department, Cindy opted for the Malibu Bungalows, a "splurge" place according to the Lonely Planet guide. It was a nice relatively clean room with AC and most importantly cable TV (you will see why shortly).

After settling in, we went to walk down the beach in search of sustenance (a.k.a. something to wash down with beer). We made it as far as Eden, the resort next door, where we met the Lobster Lady. She was a really nice woman with a huge smile and one gold tooth selling "lobster", ten for four dollars that looked more like giant crayfish or long langoustine. We couldn't resist and plopped down on a couch five feet from the waves with a couple of cold Angkor's while she prepped the lobsters.

Rainy Day at the Beach in Sihanoukville
They were an excellent lunch!

We wandered down Occheuteal Beach for the afternoon which is definitely a backpacker scene with lots of cheap bungalows, food and beer very reminiscent of the Koh Samui of my backpacker days. Seems like a good place to relax after some rough travel in Cambodia.

We thought we were going to have yakitori for dinner at a little Japanese place but it ended up that the single building was actually two restaurants and we sat on the wrong side. We asked if we could see the other menu and were told we could look but not order - too weird, perhaps we stumbled on a hidden Cambodian DMZ. At least the food was ok.


Well this morning we awoke to the sound of pouring rain, not exactly what we had in mind for our Cambodian beach adventure but it is still monsoon season and a big typhoon did just blast through Southern Vietnam.

One of many ferries for the gruelling 16 hour drive from Sihanoukville to Bangkok
We had breakfast upstairs and watched the weather gradually worsen. The dirt and rock road that we walked down to get here was completely flooded with water gushing madly by making it impossible to leave the premises. That is the reason it was a good thing our room had cable - we spent the morning watching movies...

We finally moseyed over to Coasters to use the Internet and figure out the best way back to Bangkok. After lunch at Coasters watching the pounding surf and pouring rain, it was back to movie land to watch "Be Cool" which was pretty good. "The Rock" plays a hilarious gay bodyguard and Vince Vaughn is a tacky ghetto white gangster.

We decided to suck it up and blast all the way to Bangkok tomorrow rather than spending a night at the border. Hopefully back in Bangkok we can find out about India.

Funny sign on the road to Thailand
We ended up having Happy Hour cocktails and dinner at Coasters since we couldn't go far due to the inclement weather.


We woke up early hoping for no rain or at least less than yesterday since we had to take early morning scooters to the bus station. Of course it was raining but at least not flooding when, poncho clad, we each climbed aboard our scooters with our packs on and our bigger packs squished between each driver’s legs. They both successfully navigated down the partially flooded alleyway, over the rickety board crossing the washed out road and up the muddy hill to the paved road and on to the bus station.

The minivan ride(s) to Bangkok was long but entertaining, totaling about 15 hours with multiple vehicles including the scooters, a Cambodian two wheel drive mini-van, four ferries, a walk across the Cambodian-Thai border, three different mini-vans in Thailand and finally a taxi back to the land of luxury, the Millenium Hilton (pronounced "Heel Tawn" If you want taxi drivers to understand you).

Our minivan sunk up to the axels in mud on the lovely Cambodian roads (a work in progress)

The van was of course full but at least this time we had seats! I would seriously question driving on the fairly miserable Cambodian road, many parts dirt or rather mud, in anything other than a 4WD truck. Unfortunately our driver did not share my sentiments, however we only got stuck up to our axles twice whereupon all passengers had to disembark and sploosh up the muddy road under our own power, several of us sinking up to our ankles in the reddish brown mud.

The ferries were pretty hilarious too - most of them did not really look sea-worthy but we managed to make it across all four crossings without incident.

After standing in line forever to exit Cambodia, we walked into Thailand and back onto paved roads (of course the Thais do drive on the left which makes for an interesting transition).

Typical gas station in Cambodia

We are not really sure why but we had three different minivans in Thailand, transferring after three or four minutes drive from the border and then again after another few minutes drive - all part of the fun. A mere fifteen hours later and we were back to the luxury of the Hilton and a very comfy bed.

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Our Lobster Lady friend in Sihanou…
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Relaxing with a Beer Lao in Sihano…
Relaxing with a Beer Lao in Sihan…
Rainy Day at the Beach in Sihanouk…
Rainy Day at the Beach in Sihanou…
One of many ferries for the gruell…
One of many ferries for the gruel…
Funny sign on the road to Thailand
Funny sign on the road to Thailand
Our minivan sunk up to the axels i…
Our minivan sunk up to the axels …
Typical gas station in Cambodia
Typical gas station in Cambodia
Little boy on ferry in Cambodia
Little boy on ferry in Cambodia
Sihanoukville Hotels & Accommodations review
Malibu Bungalows The Malibu Bungalows in Sihanoukville, Cambodia are right off of the beach between Sokha Beach and Occheuteal Beach and are clean bu… read entire review