'Doing the W' - Day 1
The bus picked us up at our hostel at 0715 after making the most of a shower and shampoo. Then we did five slightly different circuits of Puerto Natales, passing our hostel another three times, to pick up other trekkers.
After eventually getting to the park entrance and paying 15 pounds each entry fee we selected a site for our tent in a nice little campsite with great views of the towering mountains. After pitching tent, we began our first trek to view the tres torres (3 towers) (sorry if that is painfully obvious) and strode off confidently to begin the first stretch of the Big W, Camping Los Torres - Torres Lookout.
Five minutes in and we realised we were lost. Bugger.
After finding the extremely well trodden and painfully obvious trail start point, we crossed wind swept grass fields with gallopping, whinnying trail ponies, crossed a lovely swaying bridge to the start of the climb up towards the viewpoint.
A third of the way into the walk, the clouds swarmed over our destination and began to darken the sky before gently covering the trail in a layer of snow. Unfortunately the weather did not shift and by the time we reached a wooden cabin, the El Chileano refugio, the Torres had completely disappeared behind the snow mist. We sat in the refugio with all the other pissed off trekkers and warmed up with a hot chocolate next to a wood burner for nearly 2 hours, before finally accepting that the weather was against us for the rest of the day. We walked back to the campsite as the snow continued to fall and the Patagonian gale-force wind tried to blow us off the mountain side. We had seen the Tres Torres as we were setting up the tent (when the weather was nice, typical) so we were content enough having seen some beautiful views around the rest of the valley. Flipping frezzing night in the tent. Wore everything including gloves and hat.
Along the Big W you have 3 options....
Camp
Refugio
Day trip
Camping is available at loads of sites along the trek - at areas called 'campamento...' it is free and the site will be minimal in provisions, at areas called 'camping...' the sites are Chilean $3500 per person including use of the attatched refugio, log fire and showers. You can rent sleeping bags and tents along the trail or from Puerto Natales.
At Camping Refugio Pehoe, campers also get their own hut to use with free use of stoves and there is a fairly-well stocked shop but it is expensive.
Refugios are good if you don't fancy camping but are Chilean $19,000 per bunk.
Hot meals and snacks and supplies are available at the refugios. The evening meals are set 3-course affairs, breakfasts are buffets and packed lunches are also available.
You can get a catamaran boat from the middle bus stop in the park to Lago Pehoe refugio/campsite. It costs Chilean $11,000 each one way (about 30 mins). The other option is to walk the 17.5km to the bus stop 'Administación'.











