from Newcastle to Durham
Durham Travel Blog› entry 55 of 68 › view all entries
Through the city centre, past a couple of memorials and comparatively understated churches to the station, I departed Newcastle on the 10:30am train toward Durham. Upon arrival, I felt comfortable that I was again on track with my itinerary.
Beyond Durham’s tiny centre, I hiked a packed earth path along the River Weir and up the hill toward the cathedral and castle. Nearly to the top, I paused for a breather and to snack on a loaf of malt bread, a dense, chewy loaf with the sweet taste of maltose. I sat on a bench overlooking the river through some woods while a soothing, gentle breeze rustled leaves and stirred birds into song. In the distance were echoes of traffic, which were far enough away to almost harmonize with the relaxing noises of nature.
Photography is prohibited inside and no words can sufficiently describe how ornate was the central chapel.
I bothered not to tour Durham Castle since the building, which had been a college campus since 1840, would have paled in comparison to the majestic cathedral overshadowing it. Instead, I descended the hill to a square centered by a dominant green copper statue of a soldier on horseback. There, street musicians played horns and guitars for the gatherers for the small bank holiday festival. Very much worth the stop, I should have skipped Newcastle and spent that night in Durham!