Monhegan Island
Another splendid island community off of the coast of
What draws the artists is the back side of Monhegan, where some of the most dramatic cliffs on the East Coast exist.
You can get out to Monhegan by catching one of three ferries, departing from
One thing that you will miss if you get to Monhegan was the native deer population. Because there was no hunting, a small population of deer wandered the island without fear of humans. Encountering these deer during our hikes was one of the endearing traits for Kim & I, and as our wedding procession wound its way through the woods to the cliffs, a doe actually passed through our line and several people got to stroke her muzzle to their utter delight! Alas, the deer population became infected with lice and for health concerns were wiped out about ten years ago.
There is no doubt that the island’s allure will immediately capture you as your ferry approaches the town dock. The harbor is sheltered by a teensy island, Manana, rising starkly just next to Monhegan. There remains a dilapidated shack on Manana which was the home for a hermit who was this neighbor’s sole resident for many years a long time ago. From the dock Monhegan rises steeply to the Island Inn, perched beautifully over the harbor. This is the island’s ‘classy’ lodging, and has a nice restaurant, though I have never stayed there. I have always stayed at the Monhegan House, a delightful ramshackle building with an atmosphere in keeping with the vibe of the island.
You won’t argue with the rates, which are dirt cheap, and I hope you won’t be bothered that there are no locks on the doors.
Pastimes on the island consist of visiting artist shops (pretty much a room in the house of the residing artist) and hiking. There are actually several miles of trails, but as small as the island is you don’t need to worry about getting lost and they are all easy. As alluring as the cliffs are, there is magnificence to the island’s interior, dominated by Cathedral Woods. A mighty pine forest, the locals enhance its charm by building ‘fairy homes’. A fairy home is a vignette constructed from twigs, rocks and other natural bits lying around. I can’t begin to share the delight of spying these as you stroll through Cathedral Woods - there are many around, but very subtle and easy to overlook. Some are quite elaborate and you will likely be lured into adding your own before you exit the woods.
A very special place that remains relatively obscure, even though my friends tell me that a lobsterwomen from Monhegan was on one of those ‘survival’ shows several years ago and almost won (I don’t watch TV so I’m pretty clueless about all of that). You can absorb the splendor in a day trip (all the ferries arrive around 11AM and depart back to the mainland around 4PM, which affords enough time to hike and peek at some of the artist shops), but an overnight is recommend to truly savor the peace and recharge your soul.
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Most of the 28 rooms are on the second floor (with shared bathrooms), though there are a pair of ground floor suites with private bathrooms. Check-in is very easy since none of the rooms have locks so you don’t need to get a key, reinforcing the laid back atmosphere. Breakfasts are served in the Bluebird Café (which we rented for our wedding reception), and there are a sprinkling of places nearby for lunch and dinner. The island is teensy so everything is within walking distance.
Another great place to mingle with locals and visitors is to relax on the spacious porch or park yourself on one of the Adirondack chairs on the front lawn. Though not meticulous, the grounds of the Monhegan House are a delightful mix of plants and rocks with ocean views. Ahhhh, just writing this description recalls the tranquility of this restful spot. Monhegan is a wonderful destination, and staying at the Monhegan House during your visit is a perfect way to tune into the relaxed vibe of this special place.
